Swap Dynaflow to manual - worth hunting down original parts?

Just a question for y'all, I'm mulling this for a winter project on my '63 this year (as I wanted a stick to start with).

I want to do a manual swap, most likely with a Keisler Engineering swap (5 speed TKO-500, with custom case to fit where a T10 would fit without butchering floor pans) - and I'm wondering if it's worth the time and money to search out the original bellhousing, pedals, linkage, etc.

I'm thinking no - given that once I swap the transmission, the car is no longer factory correct, no matter how much OEM equipment I use. As far as availability and price, the Bendtsen's bellhousing/flywheel kit is a pretty attractive option. I'd probably set it up with a cable actuated clutch, not much of a fan of hydraulics.

Any thoughts?

 

http://www.keislerauto.com/ss700.html
Did you check this one out? Better fit, less tunneling.:TU:
original equipment is pretty hard to find, I'd do the Bendtsens. Not sure about clutch- if you know how to make the cable work, that sounds great.

 

I'm all for getting rid of the Dynaflow. Although it's a cool transmission, it's a slush box.

I think your best bet would be the Bendtsen's setup. No since in going with all OEM parts if your going with a 5 speed any ways.

I hope you go through with the project! It'll no doubt be a fun setup!

 

That's the box I was referring to. I'm thinking I'd go with the wide ratio and a .68 overdrive.

It's only a question of time. Whether this winter or sometime next year. My dynaflow has a nasty leak in low range and a slow weep in other gears, so I'm not expecting it to last very long without a rebuild. Money better spent on mix and match gears!

 

Your 63 would be a great fun driver with a stick trany. I love those cars.
Check the torque ratings on the gear boxes and get a good rating on the low gear ratio. The torque ratings are time rated under load and the big heavy Buick will rack up lots of hauling time under a load.
A low gear ratio of 10 or 11 to one would be on my priority list. I had a 1957 and a 1958 Buick stick. I had to skin the clutch to get them big boys rolling, but my 1954 stick with a 3.90 rear gear would get right up and go.
Multiply your rear gear ratio X the low gear ratio to make the choice. My guess is a low gear of 3.00 or 3.25 to one will be close. However, since lower gears are weaker, you want to know their torque rating.
Note: The Oldsmobile hydromatic had 3.97 to 1 low gear in 1957-58! They blew my stick Buicks away off the starting line. But at a 15 mph roll, I could run a dead heat with a J2 (tri-power) Olds with my 364 2 barrel engine, 3 speed stick.

 

That is definitely a concern, the car is a bit anemic at low speed with the dynaflow.

I have in my head that the car should have a 3.42 rear end in it, is there a code stamping somewhere on the axle to confirm that?

 

This would be my choice:
Keisler RallySport 5 speed.... more that 15 shifter positions to choose from for a perfect fit in the floor.
3.37 low, 1.99, 1.33, 1.00, .067 overdrive.
Choice of 400 ft lbs and 500 ft lbs rating.
Awsome!

Old stockers are neat but limited duration until maintenance is required. Also, limited gear choice and no overdrive.

Automatic trans had 3.23. (standard trans had 3.42)
If so, 3.23 X 3.37 = 10.88 starting ratio (minus a little for the big 15" tire diameter). Should be a hoot to drive and 17-18 mpg hwy.