1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Stuck lifters... HELP

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Darryl Roederer, Feb 7, 2002.

  1. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    OK, I'm pullin my hair out here:af:

    Got a [documented] 300k mile bone stock 71 350, still in the car. All cyl's have good compression, so I have no need to pull the engine to replace the cam [2 flat lobes].

    I'm really gettin mad, I cant get these @#$%$#@ lifters to come out the top.

    I'v already busted 2 lifter removal tools, 1 cheap one, and one good expensive one.

    I spent all day today trying. Had I known it was gonna be so much trouble, I woulda just pulled the whole sucker out, and knocked em out the bottom like usual.

    Someone got a trick I could try?????:confused:
     
  2. quick85

    quick85 wrench turner

    stuck

    i have good luck with a pair of needlenose vise grips. the smaller ones. and a long skinny screwdriver. put the screwdriver in the gap in the grips and work up and down slowly. kinda rough on the lifter bores , but has worked for me. pat myers chas,wva
     
  3. Turbine_guy

    Turbine_guy Member

    Darryl,

    Tread carefully here. When can lobes "go flat" the cam will mushroom out the bottom of the lifter(s). You may not be able to get the bad ones out from the top, and if you do pull hard enough, you can potentially score the lifter bore.
    I suggest you pull the cap off the oil pump and have a look at the end plate that the gears run against. If the cam lobe and lifter trash have not scored the pump cover, proceed with trying to get the lifters out through the top. But.....if the cover is chewed up, better count on pulling the engine, and popping the lifters out the bottom, and repairing the damage the trash caused.
    Hate to pessemistic, but, don't want you see you tear up a lifter bore either. That lobe material has to go somewhere.

    Regards,
    Robin Sipe.
     
  4. GSThunder

    GSThunder Dejavu

    I have a trick that I use for just this type of problem.Now don't laugh,but I go to the store and buy a roll of gift wrapping paper(doesn't matter what design).You know the roll about 3 ft long?
    Well,I unroll the entire thing and give the wrapping paper to the wife.Then I take the paper roll and slice it LENGTHWISE so I have two halfs,both 3ft long.
    Now heres the tricky part! Work the stuck lifters up just enough that they get stuck in the lifter bores,then remove the camshaft. Then insert one half of the paper tube into the camshaft hole and tap the lifters into it.I use a telescoping magnet to retrieve them from the tube so I can leave the tube in the camshaft hole until all lifters are gone.The tube will keep the lifters from falling into the engine.:D
     
  5. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good


    Cool.
    Now that's a nifty trick:laugh:

    BTW, it's a [girl] friends car, [not to be confused with girlfriend;)]
    Did the plugs/points/etc to find the cause of the "miss" B4 I found the bad cam.
    Drained the oil, and fired the engine dry for a couple seconds to make sure no bearings were knocking, everything sounded solid.

    Pulled the oil pump apart, and surprisingly, just the usual wear, no scoring visible.

    It's actually been very well cared for it's entire life. 300k miles, and the inside of the engine is clean, original timing chain still going strong! Just two flat lobes on the cam causing an anoying miss.
     
  6. Turbine_guy

    Turbine_guy Member

    Using Al's trick, sounds like you will have "her" up and running in no time. (I will definately remember this tip.)

    Robin Sipe.
     
  7. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    Update: bad news...

    Went out this evening to try the "paper roll" trick, pulled the cam, and a paper thin cam bearing came out and fell into the pan:(

    Looks like I'll be pullin the whole engine tomorrow.

    Hate the idea because at 300k miles, you just know everything else in there has got to be "worn paper thin", so I'll be replacing a whole lot more than just a cam...

    Maybe better in the long run, she really likes the car, and was asking me if it was time for a rebuild... looks like it is:rolleyes:

    BTW, the 2 flat lobes were on either side of the bad bearing, Hmmmmm, anybody want to comment on that? Would the flat lobes cause the bearing failure, or vise-versa?????

    2 day job turned into a week long one, gotta hate that:mad:
     
  8. GSThunder

    GSThunder Dejavu

    Darryl,sorry the paper rol thing didn't help you out,but look at it this way,whata great time to upgrade to a bigger camshaft.....and maybe headers........and ported heads are always nice;)
     
  9. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    Just got off the phone with her,
    She was asking "How much more horsepower will it have? Will it be able to burn rubber like it did 20 years ago?":rolleyes:

    Really do wish this was my car, it's rust free and really cleeean!
     

Share This Page