Stinger S-4 input voltage

Does anyone know if a Stinger S-4 requires a full 12 volts input voltage?

 

The short answer is no. I can dig my instructions out but as I remember they use a resistor wire like the stock one. Thanks Bill.

 

Thanks Bill - I'm running one on the 73, and I've got the instructions too - and it doesnt really say anything specific about power source. The reason I ask is I ran a full 12 volt jumper and it seems to run much better at revs... maybe I'm compensating for something else, like a bad coil, etc...

Does anyone know what the test specs should be for a tan top Stinger coil?

 

You need a 1/2 ohm resistor if you plan to drive it on the street, otherwise you may burn out the coil.

 

I can always run the 9.6 volt resistor wire, but I'm just interested in why it runs and even idles better with 12 volts?

 

I thought the resistor was for the ignition box. I just installed one back on the race car and put the 4 ohm resistor to the box. I thought the coil should get straight voltage to have the best output. Fred told me to use the resistor if you are running an alternator to keep the voltage at 12 or lower. I will ask him when I talk to him again.

 

I think my box is taking the voltage straight from the coil - 9.6 v. There's nothing in the instructions about it either.

I'm torn on this - I know people really love the Stingers, but least I know how to set a Pertronix III up and run it. I'd hate to tear this thing out if I can get it running right..

 

The info I have said if you use it. only for race and DO NOT have an alt, it is you can run 12 volts, but all other use factory resistor ot s 1/2 ohm ballast resistor (Stinger #11055. I think I reprinted this from V8 but cannot find it online. If you woud like a hard copy I can send you one. Thanks Bill.

 

I'm talkin to Fred C and he said either to the coil and box or just box. I'm using a 4ohm resistor that I got from Autozone. It fits 1 of the Chryslers, some have more than 4 ohms. I run the wire from the ignition toggle to the coil and then from the coil through the resistor to the box.

 

Larry - the site wont let me open attachments again - could I ask you to e-mail it to me as an attachement? I'm at btrue@spt.com. I have the instructions that came with the unti but they dont look like that sheet - yours seems to have more detail.


Thanks!

RT

 

Thanks Larry -

Turns out I only had the pages for the Magna Pulse, not the actual S-4 unit... This helps alot!

 

Well mines on and the total timing at 3000 is set at 40. I'm going Wednesday to try it out. I noticed they put the resistor behind both coil and box in that schematic. I have an extra coil if that one fails and I have ran this set up without a resistor for years on the race car with an alternator and never burnt up a box or coil. Just lucky I quess. I replace the resistor wire in the engine wiring harness a long time ago so I have total voltage with alternator voltage.

 

I havent had time to think it all through yet, but I'll admit I'm confused about bypassing the resistor wire at 9.6 volts, putting a full 12 volt source in with another 1/2 ohm resistor. What would be the ultimate voltage at that point? How many ohms is the factory resisitor wire?

I'm also concerned because I've still got my original issue that I had to install the timing at about 45 degrees initial just to get the car to run..I still have some things to check (cam timing, vacuum leaks) but I'm wondering if the S-4 box is artificailly retarding the timing somehow at low RPM's.

 

When they built the box it was intended for use on drag cars with 12 volt systems without alternators. Most drag racers just charged their batteries between rounds. When racers started adding more electrical components we found that running an alternator would help the fuel pump keep up better with fuel delivery and keep the car running more consistent. An alternator puts out 13.5 to 14.5 volts so you have to resist those extra volts with a resistor. If you just use your oem resistor wire it lowers the volts to 9.6 which is alot less than 12 volts. I replaced the wire from the body junction block at the drivers lower firewall that feeds the coil. So you have to run straight 12 volts to the resistor to keep the voltage at 12 volts while the alternator is charging. I ran a 12 volt wire for years without a resistor and never fried one but I quess I was lucky and I only raced the car so it wasn't getting long run times on the box. Does that explanation help any?

 

Is your curve coming in too soon? The S4 always retards, if the curve comes in too soon you'll need more total, I ran into this last year.

 

Its a KB 107/118 cam, and pulls 15 inches - I resealed the B4B, it doesn't seem to leak externally, but need to check for internal leaks still