No I mean the contact point on top of the valve stem from the rocker arms were over to one side of the valve stems, instead of being across the entire valve stem and in the middle. And pretty much everything is rusted...engine got water in it, so the rockers, pushrods, lifters, cam...all junk...pitted bad. To use this block, it would have to be shot peened first to remove all the rust inside.
Thanks Sean. I'm probably going to call you when we start finding out what this block is. (I'm pretty sure it was punched out once already.) Hope the water didn't get to the crank.
Just ordred up the American Thunder 2 1/2" with Flowmaster series 40 mufflers...along with a new thermostat housing, heater core, blower fan, blower motor, and torque converter dust cover. We JB welded the old thermostat housing...hope it works, but wanted a spare. (Justin Case)
Scored a set of NASCAR take outs from fleebay. [h=1]6.450" Carrillo Tapered Beam Rods 1.980"-.900" Wide-.787" WP NASCAR[/h]
Boy, you're going to have a brandy new car pretty soon!:TU: Listen to my YouTube vid, yours will sound somewhat similar, depending on cam & comp.
Pulled the heads off the spare engine yesterday. Engine was seized from water, but we got it loose after letting some WD-40 soak in. Engine has 0.030" over Pistons already. The block looks like it was decked, but the Pistons are still 0.100"-0.110" in the hole. Need a better dial indicator setup, as there is to much play in all the levers.
The Noga articulating style is a great mix of versatile and rigid. I'm not sure what they have to fit 0-1" drop-style indicators, I've always used them on the smaller test indicators (lever type with a really small range). I use the cheap mag base holders for engines, good enough for me!
Yeah, I just purchased a deck bridge with magnetic base to use with my dial indicator. Cheap, and probably way more rigid then the magnetic base, swivel crap I have. Just not sure if the 1" travel will be enough, as the bridge looks to be about an inch tall. I guess we shall see when it arrives. Also bought the 18" Moroso degree wheel, as I sold my last degree wheel years ago. And a connecting rod splitter. (Tired of using a rubber hammer to separate the end caps, as I think it's not that wise to do so.)
What is everyone's "Go-to" for head studs, and main studs? ARP? Any preference between the different kits? I see they are only rated for 200,000psi, while others are 240,000. Dont wanna re-use the main bolts, or the head bolts...
Excellent! Now all you need to do is have them narrowed, have your machinist take all the material off of the non-chamfered side of the big end because the factory Buick rods are offset and most those rods are more than likely have no offset they're on center.(If you remove a piston from a factory rod, you can see(if you squint just right) from the side view of the rod that the big bore end and the small bore end are NOT inline) If I recall right those rods are around .900" wide so .055" needs to be removed to get to the factory sbb size of .845" and if I remember correctly from back when I measured a stock rod's offset it was around .062" so if those rods are on center then all of the material can be taken off of the non-chamfered side when narrowing, if they have some offset to them already then try to maintain a .062" offset with the crank side being the longer side. If there isn't .055" of material on the non-chamfered side then it won't hurt to remove a bit from the chamfered side if need be, just try to maintain about an at least .020" rise on the non-chamfered side to help separate the rods when they're bolted to the crank's rod journal. There should be plenty to take it all from one side though, should be around an 1/8"(.125") rise per side so all of the .055" off of one side should be no problem. Now you need to chose your stroke, you can go as much as .140" extra with a virgin crank, you can't go the full .150" because the grind shop needs that extra .010"(.005" per side) to index and make sure the crank journal has an 100% cleanup. So you can have a max stroke of 3.990" like the sbb 370 build that is .040" overbore, or anything below that .140" you could even destroke as much as .140" if you wanted to but who would? Don't discount that .030" over bored block, I have sonic tested a sbb block that was thick enough to take to 4.00" bore!(so have your block sonic tested, shouldn't cost more than $100 for that service and well worth it, if you have 2 blocks that you will possibly have checked try to negotiate a 2 for one price if the first block checks to be thin so you'll have that info for the block you chose not to use if the plan is to sell one? Dealers choice) If you're planning on using AutoTec pistons you can order them the size you need, but try to pick a more common bore size so there are good rings available for that size. If your block is good enough to go .105" over(.105" because of good rings availability, the thinner the better because of less drag which will unlock free power, 1/16" or 1.5mm rings will work better compared to the thicker 5/64" old school style rings) @ .105" overbore and a 3.990" stroke you can have a 383 CID sbb, that extra 33 cubes is a night and day difference between a sbc 350 and a sbc 383, more low end torque without sacrificing much high RPM HP!(no worries spinning passed 5,000 either because of the rods you're going to be using! 10,000 should be no problem with those rods, the rest of the engine is a different story, LOL, but 7,500 should be OK if you wanted to cam for that much and could feed enough air for that much?) Even better if you're planning on getting the aluminum heads when they come out, porting won't hurt low end as much as having a puny 355 sbb. My sbc 383 in my '65 Impala runs more like a big block than a small block because of the mild roller cam I chose, it has tons of low end torque to move that land barge of a car! 33 more cubes with a set of the new heads will give those mild to moderate BBBs a run for their $$$! Setup the combo just right with a set of the new aluminum heads ported and the right solid roller cam with enough compression, 383 N/A cubes(perhaps even done with pump gas if the combo is optimized?) would be enough to get to 11.5 seconds in the QM which is the fastest allowed without a roll bar or cage at a track. You're going to really be happy on how the engine will run with the extra cubes! GL Derek
How much power are you planning? Are you planning on custom pistons and some sort of boost? If only N/A then ARP would be plenty. Derek
We have not pulled the pistons, rods or crank yet, but I'm betting the crank is 0.010"/0.010" under already. What about cutting the counterweights of the crank to fit the rods instead of cutting the rod ends? (Way more weight off the crank) They will most likely have to remove weight from the crank anyways, as the rods are lighter than stock. Pistons...would love to do a 4.000" bore, but that's a bit much...going to order custom Pistons when the time comes, and just get them sized for zero deck clearance. (The 0.030" Pistons are way down...I measured 0.110" to the outside top of the piston.) No boost, custom pistons, and hope to have around 450-500rwhp. Deposit is down for a set of aluminum heads.
Some crank grinders don't like to side grind with their wheels. It's also usually cheaper to cut the rods. In both cases you would need to ask your machinists.
ARP-124-4001 Head stud kit. ARP-124-5402 Main stud kit. Can't believe how cheap this stuff is compared to building a diesel.:shock:
