Rebuilt the carb. Didn't change anything. But at least I can check that off the list. I know I have been asking questions with out giving any data, which is probably frustrating. I'll work on getting some numbers this week end. What all readings should I check? I imagine timing, pressure, vacuum?
Well, to start with the 270H in a 215 is a fairly hot cam so that's going to play hob with your idle and if you ever do get a smooth idle under a grand you might want to be happy with that. Most likely vacuum will be all over the place which means you'll most likely have to resort to all the hot cam tuning tricks like a low vacuum power piston and such. I don't recall if you said anything about the compression ratio or exhaust but that is sort of important for that cam. If you are running the high compression pistons or something around 10:1 that's good but if they are the 8:1 slugs the performance will drop off considerably. You also need a free flowing exhaust with that cam and good equal length headers can make a profound difference. With good pistons and headers, it should wake up somewhere between 2000-3000 rpm and start pulling hard all the way to redline and beyond, but below 2K it's behavior will not compare favorably with the stock cam. That's just the price you pay for performance. If you're running 8:1 slugs and a stock exhaust you might want to consider a stock cam. Jim
That is something I forgot to mention is my exhaust. I have yet to get my exhaust redone. Currently it is the stock manifolds and single exhaust with a glasspack. That is how it was set up when I got it. The down tubes off the manifolds are smashed into the 2 inch single pipe... I plan on getting 2.5 inch duals installed as soon as I get it running decent. Maybe I need to get it done asap? What problems will this exhaust cause? As for pistons I'm running 10:1 compression. Also will running low octane gas give me problems? I believe the gas in the tank is 87 octane. Is there an option for a stall converter for my dual path? I removed my distributor and reinstalled it today to make sure it was correct. Also my timing chain I put in had a 3 way key to advance or retard. I put it in on 0. Should I have maybe done differently? Lol I know this is a lot of questions... Also something that seems a little odd to me is when I move the distributor trying to advance or retard the timing it does not really change the idle, neither does the adjustment screws on the carb for that matter... One last thought I've had is that I used black rtv on the intake pan, which I now learned is wrong. Could that create a problem with a vacuum leak or such?
Had a huge breakthrough today! Turned out the wire going to my coil was a resistance wire... so wasn't supplying the correct voltage for the points conversion.. was a very weak spark until I swapped the wire out. Now it is running decent but still needs timed correctly, so I'm gonna give the power timing thread a good reading and get to tuning! Feels good to be going In a positive direction finally. I still need to figure out the charging system though. Battery charged just fine till I redid the motor. Is it possible that the generator went bad while it sat on the shelf? Lol all the wiring is hooked up just as it was. I
Good, let me know if you have any questions. Hook up a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running. look for 14-14.5 volts.
I've got another question. I've got the car running and driving. Still does not seem great yet. I only have single exhaust and the two pipes that come off the manifolds are smashed/bent into the one single pipe. Is it possible that this is robbing some power and affecting my idle and temp?
> I only have single exhaust and the two pipes that come off the manifolds are smashed/bent into the one single pipe. > Is it possible that this is robbing some power and affecting my idle and temp? Yes. Cams with narrow lobe separations need an efficient exhaust. We've done muffler testing on the dyno and restrictive mufflers will upset the idle with narrow LSA cams. Personally, I wouldn't run that cam (in that displacement engine) without headers and good mufflers. On a 400 HP engine, we've seen a 50 HP drop through restrictive mufflers. Good mufflers like Magnaflow straight throughs can be as good as open headers. Temperature can also be a result of improper timing. Dan Jones
I plan on doing the exhaust. I just can't seem to get the engine to perform great. So was looking for confirmation that the way my current exhaust is, it would be causing me problems? Because if the current exhaust is keeping me from getting it tuned properly I will go ahead and do the exhaust. (Planned on waiting till car was in good running order). I called today and got a quote for 360 dollars, that is with 2.5" with thrush mufflers. 320 if I wanted glass packs. Is this a decent price?
Decent price. Will they do an H or X pipe with that? I think flowmaster a body pipe kit(no muff) is about that Price.Mandrel bent with H.would just need downpipes from manifolds Won't accept 2.5 pipes anyway.but shop doing it is less headaches.
