I just got my new copper head gaskets from SCE, when I ordered them they said to coat them with copper coat, and that's it, ready to go it seals great around the water passages, so I bought some. Is it really that easy? I usually put a small bead of Ultra Black around the water passages, SCE said you can't have any other "products" touching the copper coat, just use the copper coat, but say I could still run the small bead of Ultra black, but have to put it on, let it dry, then tape it off, making sure the copper coat doesn't touch it. What have you guys done? The block has been decked, and will be wiped clean, the heads too, and how many coats of Copper coat do ya use?? The directions say "coat it evenly, let it get tacky, and then install..." No directions with the gaskets....Just want to make sure it seals, I'd like to get the heads and intake on this weekend, and then the new motor is almost done. Gary G.
I used copper coat and was unhappy with it. But then I didn't have the deck o-ringed either. I got compression leakage into the water jacket. With o-rings this time around I plan to put a thin smear of "Right Stuff" around each of the water and oil openings, top and bottom, slap it together and torque it down. I mentioned that to Ryan Hunter at SCE and he approved, only cautioning me not to get enough of it on there that it squished into the passages. I won't be using anywhere near that much. But I might use a *very* thin smear opposite the o-rings and at the o-ring ends. Jim
Thx for the idea Jim i think i will try this aswell as i will be putting it back together in the next couple of weeks. Jamie
I use a very light bead of ultra-black around the water ports, and no copper-coat. Be sure the gaskets are annealed properly. I've re-used my gaskets five times now, never a leak or any other issues. I just re-anneal them before reinstallation. My block is o-ringed. Although I'm not a full-race combination, I do use some heavy doses of nitrous (200 - 250 HP). I've blown up some forged pistons before, with no damage to the gaskets. -Bob C.
Wow, not o-ringed, huh? I did not have good luck with that. What is your compression ratio calculated with the coppers (.020" thick I presume).
I have an O-Ringed block and copper head gaskets .125" yes.125". When I put it together it took 6 times on and off to get it sealed! I did everything Santos, Mike at TA told me to do. I spoke with the gasket manufacture too. The red spray stuff three coats 12 hrs apart, torque the head in 3-steps 12hrs apart. Anneal it, don't anneal it. I never got to use the Yama-Bond I bought. It was the coolant passages leaking into the lifter valley. The answer K and W Block Sealer. I followed the directions but I've seen people throw it in with coolant on older motors with good results. Next time i'll use "The Right Stuff" around the passages. when i disassembled the heads the RTV i used would come off around the passages very easy, like easy to squeeze out when in contact with coolant or oil, slimy like. Lessons learned.
i used the copper spray and the ultra copper rtv around the water ports on my bbc. haven't fired it off yet but i have rad that the yama bond works, nelson racing engines uses permatex super 300 form a gasket on his turbo engines. also a product called hylomar, don't know where to get that though.
I understand GM used to put cooling system sealing tablets behind their freeze plugs. TA Performance sells them. A quality cooling system sealer before turning over the motor will seal the cooling system. Thinking back, what i did was before firing i added block sealer, pressurize the radiator and turn the water pump with a drill motor using the belt. I just didn't want to contaminate the oil $$$.
The gaskets are new ready to use, no annealing required. Block is o-ringed, and close to a full fill of hard block, not much water in the block, but I don't want it in the oil. I've got almost all the "sealing products" mentioned, ultra black, copper coat, and hylomar (you can buy it at auto parts stores, it always stays gooy). So, it sounds like the copper coat is out, but still not sure what'll work the best, I've used the smear of ultra black in the past with a similar combination, I've heard that the hylomar is great too, like I said, it doesn't really dry, I could smear some on the o-ring, and around the water passages. I'm pretty sure that Rick C. was running cometics, but I'll give him a call tomorrow. Gary G.
That would of done the trick though the same as ThreeBond 1194 its a semi drying gasket made for places like that with lots of heat cycles. Why its semi drying, products that just cure can't fill an ever changing gap forever. Used it on my intake.
