on top of not having time to put my car together. I've been sick, with more than one problem.... not to get into that. but i was wondering if anyone was running a similar setup. And what kind of performance i can expect.... 83 Regal limited. BBB 455 60 over. 11-1 pistons, 70 heads stage one valves (no port work) felpro blue gasket. Block was decked to 0, because it had been rebuilt once befor, heads just a light plane to make sure they were flat. Poston GS113-A cam. what else..... boosted oil pump.... double roller chain, stage one fuel pump. Eddlebrock performer 800 cfm carb on top of poston S devider intake. Gonna start off with the stock TH350 (till i have the money for to build a switch pitch th400, have a trans already, just gotta build it) and stock gears, gonna just weld the spiders till i can get my hands on a GN rear or a Ford 9 inch, so probably 2.73 gears. AC delete, keeping the heat. going with adjustable uppers and boxed lowers in the rear. Moog Springs all around, Gabrielle shocks (have air shocks if i want to use those, they were cheap) I just want to know what the light at the end of the tunnle will be like once i get there. it's going to be mostly a street car ( i know it's a bit impractial with the compression ) but i don't live close enough to a track, so i figured i'd go as crazy as i could and still be able to drive it (on 100 octain). But what should i expect to run... what HP should i expect....? i'm just feelin' down and out right now... and want to be able to at least think about what my car will be like....
hey.brando,dont give up:eek2: i got the same thing going on hang in ther:Brow: what are you mad at????:shoot me a pm
hey, i'm not mad at anything. just been bummed out from no time, and bein sick and injured.... Was just wondering what kind of 1/4 this car will run or something.... curiouse is all, since i won't be in it driving for months to come....
depending on rear gear/tracktion possibly in high 11s low twelves until you blow rear end out from underneath it which wont be long most of those regals had a 2.41 rear endand the spiders will break easlily with some real power are you using the stock fuel lines from tank if so you will need bigger ones to feeb that hog, and i suggest a bigger carb
yeah stock lines, and that's the carb i got, so i'm using it for now... not realy gonna be racing, so it'll be good on the street
Well! Where to start? You have alot of the right stuff, it just isn't in the right recipe. 11:1 compression pistons with .00 deck will probably be more than 11:1, probably 11.5, so running 100 octane will only get you burned out bearing from detonation. There is a least a 110 octane fuel requirement for your application, Hum, that equates to $4.00 to $4.50 a gallon, gulp, gulp. You would be better off putting the $$ into the right combo rather than the oil company wallet. The camshaft, carb and intake are a good blend for a 9.5 to 10.50 compression ratio. The 113A has good lowend and would work ok with 2.73 gear you can burn a lot of street tire rubber for a long way. ET in the 1/4 mile, I will give you a mid to low 13's to high 12's maybe. Not much to make you happy here, but some information to consider before you have to pull the engine because it detonated itself to death. Weekender
Hey, i meant to write 110 octaine.... oops... i work with a guy who has the same motor less the intake, he's got a performer, in a monte ss.... he's had it for five years... no problems. machined the same, by the same guy, same parts from same distributors.... very very close to being completely identical... but he's only driven it on the street, doesn't have a real idea of what it'd do on the track... Oh he also shoots the hell out of it with N02.... I am feelin better this weekend, and will be working on the car a lot tomorrow, hopefully measure for the mounts, and put them in, and do the front suspension... if time allowes, put the motor in and finish up the ac delete...
You are asking for trouble on the compression with little horsepower to gain on the upper end of the compression hp curve. If you bumped it back say 1/2 point that may be a 5-8 hp loss that is all. Put on the thicker head gasket from TA and give yourself some margin to run pump gas. Having a street car that is a slave to race gas is impractical and expensive. DO not rely on the other guys car as a marker. Just a jetting, cam, or combustion chamber difference could mean yours does not work so well as his.
we've got the same cam, carb, and the same guy did our heads... both have 70 heads.... i'll see how it goes, if it's to much trouble to run like it is, i'll go with a thicker gasket.... turns out block isn't at zero... oops.... it's been a while since i had the work done, didn't remember all my numbers.... pistons are i think 10.5. the machine guy said i'd be somewhere around 11 with the heads i have and the gasket i used... i was a bit medicated when i posted before.... and had been putting up mis info in past posts.... sometimes it's hard to remember all the facts since i've been buying parts for almost 2 years, and just got it together 2 months ago...
Ont he engine side I have to agree with Weekender and Jim - screw compression, go for the thicker gaskets and the safer engine. FOrget welding the spiders too - get a good 3.73 gear and you'll really push. On the cheer up front I'd say you are high-13's depending on how well your rear is set up. If you change to a 3.42 or 3.73 I'd say you're into the low 13's, high 12's. Bench racing is all good man!
I have a story that should cheer ya up, my gsx clone has been in the body shop for 2 years and its just now in primer, i have a 525 cube BBB with 750 hp sitting on a stand wasting away, no car to go into. it could be worse trust me lol
anyhow, I am going to weld the spider gears, because i don't plan on using that rearend for more than amonth, at most. i know it's not realy a good idea to do, but i'm just going to throw the rearend out anyway, going with a ford 9, unless i can find a GN rear for dirt cheap. keeping the motor the way it is, i have no problem getting the gas for it, as theres a station in my town that sells 110 octane, and 2 airports local that i can get fuel from. And i don't mind paying for the gas, this is a toy, that's it, toys cost money, and they are fun. motor is going in this coming weekend, trans will go in as soon as i get it, then i measure and have a drive shaft made.
I was wondering why you wanted to go with a ford 9inch for your car? Unless your making a whole lot of power a 9inch will actually slow you up. A 8.5 will work jus fine for your application
i think i'm in the 500 or so HP range.... not sure tho. kinda felt like over building the car for future upgrades in engine... would like to eventually go with a large cam, and possibly stroke the engine... but not for quite some time... would only like to buy a rearend once... but who knows. this is the first car i'm realy building, so i don't realy know what's best. following what a the guy i work with did with his monte SS, he's built quite a few cars. including a 67 gs400, 71 nova tube chassi race car (certified at 7 seconds i think) a 69 camaro pro street. and he's working on a 68 camino... so i figured i'd copy his monte, wich is mostly buick, exept the rearend...
not saying it wouldnt work but you could use a gn rearend wrk fine for your application and possibly be cheaper if you wanted to go stronger with that you could always buy axles and upgrade. A 8.5 can easily hold a 500hp motor
Whats the best place to start, or to buy a complete 8.5? brakes to brakes, gears, the whole thing, and what do you guys think it'd run me?
Try to buy a complete rear end drum to drum if you find a good one tha most you may have to do is change the gear if it doesnt have what your looking for
