solid engine mounts

Wondering if anyone is using these,I keep tearing the rubber mounts and even welded them solid,but still pulled that apart. thanks

 

I made some solid mounts for my car. Just use the standard mount to make a jig and you are in business. It's a real pain to install, but had no problems with them afterward.

 

I've never liked the idea of them on a BB Buick....The block is too weak and the more power you make the more it will flex.

I would(And always have)make a plate or other device from the cylinder head to the frame.

 

Have you ever seen a block broken from solid mounts???.I just got to get it through the race season then its going under the knife to get front halfed.

 

Actually two..........One was a Turbo V6 Buick the other was a 600-ish HP 455 in my Buddy's 70 Skylark(10.40 car).

I also spoke w/ Bobb Makley(He's on this forum as well)and he said he actually could watch the Block flex in his Father-in-Law's Racecar just by turning the engine over by hand during maintenance.

 

thats alittle scary :eek2: Does hard blocking the block help??

 

We've used a solid on the left and a stock mount on the right with no problems, but we're not at the power levels of some others here.

 

I agree with Gary K,If you have a lot of power you'll crack #2 main web with a solid mount,thats where the mount is located.Use a rubber mount and fashion a plate to the drivers head down to the frame,I've had this for years without a problem with 700hp.Known others who used the solid and had problems. I don't believe hardblock will help,the block is in tension at this location.
gary

 

I have solid leg mounts in my boat only about 450 HP do you think I should switch to plate in the boat it takes alot of abuse in the water boncing of waves and stuff.

 

Solid

I run solids at the stock location. BUT I also run a "mid-plate" that is two ears which bolts to the backside of the transmission flange over the back of the case. They remove without pulling the motor. It keeps the stress of the motor rocking back on the launch off the motor mounts as well as shares the twisting flex. Worked great for me so far at 900+ HP. :TU:

 

Dose anyone have pictures of plates used mounting from head to frame? The motor I used last year had 500hp,Im building new motor this year that will probably be 650-700hp and i would burst into tears if i broke it.Next year the car is going in for front half so then it will get mid-plate and engine plate.

 

Anyone using some kind of torque strap with rubber mounts?
If so, is it working out good for you?
Any pictures?

Thanks :3gears:

 

Here is what I was using.......

 

Thanks gary!

 

What thicknest is the aluminum and do they interfere with the alternator?

 

I have the same style,but I install them just on the drivers side,front and back of the block,then the alt works OK
gary

 

I used .250(1/4") and space lower pulley accordingly :TU:

 

Gary K.,

Those front engine mounts could be replaced with titanium or if nothing else they need a few holes drilled in them to lighten them up!!! :3gears:


Later

 

Man, another area my car is different.
I've used a stock mount that has been welded to be a solid mount for years on the drivers side without any problems. Stock rubber mount on pass side.
I have it on my list to make a "'tiedown" at the head.

 

Mounts!

I have been concerned about this since I run solid mounts in the stock location. I'm not sure how much hp I make but it has run 10.30's and 1.38 short times. Ran same engine for 5 years without any problem. I do have a home made turn-buckle with heim joints to the left head and the frame. Going to aluminum heads and more horsepower this year may require a different setup.
Jim N.