So I removed my front windshield and rear window. Any help guys

I'm using eastwood rust cure stuff. What should I use over that to allow a secure bond when using the butyl tape for the windows? Also the rear has some holes that I wanna use the fiberglass bondo stuff on. What's a good sealer for bondo?

 

Also what can I use as a base that the glue for my vinyl top will adhear to?

 

Ouch. That looks worse than my '71. I welded patch panels/strips of good metal to replace that bad stuff. Not really sure fiberglass is the correct way to go. Someone here with more knowledge will chime in!

 

Oddly the sides and bottom othe front are excellent with like zero rust. I took out both windows because the both had a leak up top and I wan to install a vinyl top.

 

First off, get a wire wheel and grind all that rusty looking gunk and sealant off of there so that you can see what you really have. Once you have "hella" cleaned the gunk outta there and are down to metal, (hopefully), then you can wipe on some acid or rust mort or which ever rust killer you choose to kill off the rust.

Second, welding in metal is way better than any other method, as I'm sure you must know.
If you are really short on cash and just can't do the welding, I can understand it.

POR15 has some epoxy putty. It is a two part product that is like mixing two different colors of modeling clay. It hardens up like a mofo. That might help you. You could also get some fiberglass cloth and lay it in place, then dab the POR15 paint onto it, let it dry, dab some more, and just build that stuff up.
BOTH of these methods are not a great idea, but may get you on the road again.
Go to the POR15 site and take a look at their stuff. They also have a cream like version of their paint that is thicker and may work better with the fiberglass cloth.

After looking at all those options, please re-consider taking it to a body shop and having somebody weld in some metal after you get it all cleaned up. That would be the best method.

Good luck.

 

Ive done that repair in the past using fiberglass cloth and bondo. it worked ok but as stated above metal is the way to go. Also. keep in mind the pins for your molding clips. If those are gone or ground off you will have no way to put the trim back on around the glass when you are done.

 

I can cut some out if you decide to go with metal.

 

Mark I may just take you up on that offer, let me find another body guy. My old one went outta business

 

Lots of work, but the only way it will last is by metal patching it. I have done it many times. I would not recommend anything else. As far as the window clip studs go, you can replace them with a special stud screw that is available through the trim clip manufacturers, often sold on ebay. They work out good-just remember to use a little structural adhesive on the threads to help lock them in and seal at the same time. another option is replacing them with a stud gun. They offer a special stud for the gun just for this purpose. good luck-take your time and do it right the first time.:TU:

 

This is the rear I cleaned the rust off and used eastwood rust convertor. For the vinyl top what should I put down paint wise for the glue to stick? What do I use for the window butyl glue to stick to when I put the window back in. Do I just prime and that's it or paint? Any thoughts on what I need to use for the glues?

 

Is that a hole in that pic? I think you might be getting a bit ahead of yourself worrying about a vinyl top just yet! Some of that metal should probably be replaced.
I had to fix alot on my '71, but done right wiill last another 40 years!

 

Yep its a hole... I'm set on having the bad spots repaired. I found a how to for the top on youtube so I got that squared away. The quaters are. My worst concern...

 

Your headliner needs to come out at least in in part, then you need some some serious metal surgery and finally some metal transplanting needs to happen. Have Mark cut you a new top beyond what you think you will need and then have a pro trim it back and graft it. If you have anything on the sides or the rear windshield, it may be easier to install a whole new top.

 

Good! Hows the trunk floor? My windows leaking let enough water in the trunk to give it some pinholes. Next thing to fix!

 

Took out the headliner when I got the car a couple years ago and the metal was all good.
The trunk is solid not one rist spot. Still has the old slatter paint.:beers2: I can tell the quaters have bondo, so that will be an issue to deal with

 

Nice! Our '70 trunk was in great shape also....
Sounds like you are well on your way!

 

Yep. I just need to take care of the rust issues. Is there a bigg diff in the repo quater panels? Could I just get the cheap ones and be ok? Its just gonna be a driver.

 

I just did the window frame repair on a full size buick with metal. Important to get all the rust you can off of there with a wire brush or mild sandblasting. You might not need to replace that much metal, but odds are you will have some pin holes. DO NOT put bondo or duraglass over the rusted or bad areas, you'll be doing it again soon. i would get your rust converter or rust mort and spray it on and in and behind the headliner to let it soak down into all the rust. I've used the eastwood with 2-3 applications then sanded lightly and used epoxy primer with no issues at all.

 

Metal it is. :beer
May just be time for me to take some welding classes

 

You won't regret it!