Well Iwas up late last night puting in my headers , talk about puting a square peg in a round hole:af: . Any way I got them in but the only problem is that one of the pipes is touching the brake perportioning valuve is that ok? I hope it is don't want to take off header .
DEFINATELY NOT OK you will boil the brake fluid......Badddd things could happen. Im assuming you have the proportioning valve that sits on the frame...?? There aren't many (any ??) "Stock" options Here is what did.....I cant recommend it but it has worked for me. I removed the mounting bracket that the valve is in, and gently persuaded the brake lines to move about a half inch outward away from the headers. I then drilled new holes and mounted the valve without its bracket (this gave me ~ another 1/2"). I also wrapped the valve in thermal barrier tape before mounting it back. I've been driving it this way for 6 years and haven't had a problem. Id say I have just under an inch of clearence now, where before it was almost touching. Another (better) option is to use a proportioning valve that hangs right next to the master - that was stock for certain years. Its important to have the right proportioning valve, ie, disc brake or non-disc......both were available Hope this helps.....be safe
SO ALL I NEED IS ABOUT IS A 1 INCH GAP BETWEEN THE VALUVE AND HEADER AND THAT WILL DO IT ? I THINK I CAN MANAGE THAT, THANKS!
As i said......that is what I did.......and Im not going to recommend it because it is still close. I plan on going to the proportioning valve that sits beside the master cylinder. Its definately a better, safer setup
I would make sure that you put some kind of reflective heat shield over the valve. I had the fluid boil once, but it was in park in my driveway. The pedal goes to the floor!!! Make sure you are safe.
I JUST GOT OFF THE PHONE WITH THE GUYS OVER AT TA PERF. THEY SAID THAT I NEED TO MOVE THE VALUVE FORWERED . I CAN MOVE IT BUT HOW DO I GET THE LINE THAT GOSE TO THE BACK BRAKES TO EXTEND IS THAIR SOME KIND OF ADAPTER SO I CAN ADD SOME BRAKE LINE TO IT ?:ball:
Its not an easy Pep-Boyz thing..... The ends of the brake lines are flared compression fittings, different sizes for different years. You would need a flaring tool and some brake line and have to fabricate both the piece that is going to extend from the back to the valve's new location, as well as lines from the other side of the valve up to the Master. .....and then you still have to mount it some where ?!?!?! That is why I suggested the valve that hangs near the Master.....It looks Stock, even if not correct for your specific year/application, Mounts nicely and you "should" be able to order Pre-made NEW lines from any of the Brake Line advertisers in the car Magazines Personally.....I dont like the Idea of cobbling together some lines with couplers - Its just another potential point of Failure waiting to happen. Using A Flaring tool is not difficult, but like many things it is a skill aquired with practice....to get it right. I know you want an easy Slam-Dunk, right now solution but there isn't one. These are yor Brakes !!! You want this system to be done right the first time or there may not be a second time.
Alan, sorry to butt in here, but now I'm freaking out! On my 70 455, TA headers come very close to prop. valve. Its has always bothered me, but honestly I never noticed a problem. Drove it this way daily for almost a yearo No: ou: I always planned to fix that.. Now the engine is out, could you tell me more about this other prop. valve that mounts nearby mst cyl, and would it work on stock power disc/drum 70 455?? I'd like to move this NOW, while the engine is OUT! Thanks! Jeff
Hey 67 and Alan, which TA headers(and sise) are you refering to. Curious because I'm also going to buy some TA headers soon. I would like to avoid this problem if possible. I think the 67's and earlier are a bit tighter than than the 68-72 cars.
Must be with the full length headers, because my shorties aren't even close to the frame rail on the drivers side. The passenger side is a different story, they run real close to the passengers forward brake line.
Yes. That and the 3" exhaust either touch or are right next to everything on the car!!:stmad: ou: (Just kiddin!!, kinda)
ROBERT THE HEADERS ARE THE 2012 COMP. 1 7/8 TUBBING .IF IT WAS NOT FOR THE VALVE THEY'ED BE GOOD FIT .IF YOU MOVE THE VALVE YOU SOULD BE OK . HOPE YOU DO BETTER THEN I DID. THANKS FOR YOU GUYS HELP . MARCO ( 67& topless):TU:
Yeah...me too. In fact, I forget about it for lengths of time and then something like seeing a car at a show or Cruise.....or hearing about it like now reminds me of it. I even went as far as buying a used one of the valve's Im talking about but then decided against some old piece (of possibly junk) when I have myine working......But I know how close it is under there and its FAR from Optimal. Im no expert on this....and cant tell you what years/Apps have the proportioning valve Im referring to......but instead of being under the car on the frame rail its right next to the master cylinder. Perhaps a post under the brake section will get more attention
