1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Secondary Tuning

Discussion in 'The Venerable Q-Jet' started by wildriv430, Dec 10, 2004.

  1. wildriv430

    wildriv430 low budget gearhead

    Ok i have another problem.....The secondaries snap open waaaaay to early when i punch it. So bad that the car will die if i dont let up. :af: They even snap open if you wing the engine in park, and the pipes blow black smoke.

    I dont know alot about quadrajets because i am mostly a mopar man and thus my limited knowledge lies with carters and holleys....But I have been told by some of my GM buddies that you are supposed to be able to adjust the secondary spring tension some how, they dont seem to know how either....

    Anyone care to enlighten me on how to do this? The few times ive driven the car since its been finished and put back on the road has been enough to make this problem really annoying. When the engine finally catches up with the dump of fuel it GETS UP AND GOES!! :3gears: :Brow: This is one of the reasons why i love buicks, you dont have to turn them fast to get tons of torque like most of the other guys....... cough...chevy..cough...ford cough......

    Thanks in advance,
    Marcus
     
  2. SkylarkSteve

    SkylarkSteve Hello Michael

    On the passangers side of the carb next to the secondaires, there's a small rectangular protrusion, on the side of it is a small slotted screw and on the underside is an allen head screw. place an allen wrench in that screw and a small screw driver in the slotted one, loosen the allen head screw while holding the other screw. Turn the slotted screw clockwise to tighten up the secondaries, most people suggest about 1/8 of a turn at a time so you don't go too far. Then tighten the allen head screw. The allen head screw holds the other screw in place so you don't want to release the slotted one while the allen screw is loose because it will completly unwind and you'll lose any sort of reference tightness.
     
  3. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Check the airvalve wind up, like Steve described above. Also the primary choke vacuum break, on the passenger side front of the carb, also functions to slow down the opening rate of secondary air valves. Just take a look at it with the engine running. The link should be pulled in, and restricting air valve movement. With the engine running, you should not be able to push the air valves in by hand. If you can the vacuum break is bad or the linkage to the air valve shaft is missing or disconnected.
     
  4. wildriv430

    wildriv430 low budget gearhead

    Thanks guys, I will try to make the adjustments when i get back home for x-mas. Hopefully the weather will be good enough to take the riv out on the road and test... :TU:
    The vaccum choke pull off is new so i know thats not the problem..... I probably accidently loosened the secondary spring all the way when i dissasembled the carb for rebuild, i didn't have a clue at that time as to what i was doing. :Dou:
     

Share This Page