1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Sanderson Headers for my 63 Riviera

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by NewSchool, Oct 17, 2016.

Tags:
  1. John Codman

    John Codman Platinum Level Contributor

    I have a nice set of headers for the 364-401-425 Nailhead. They have been sitting in their boxes for years. Someday I may attempt to install them, but just as I want to install a factory set of dual quads, it will be strictly for looks. I suspect that I gained about as much performance by cutting the lightening holes in my trailer hitch brackets (2 hours - eight ounces) then I will get from the headers. But damn, they look cool!
     
  2. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    Gary,,,, my theory on the nailhead intake is pretty much reflected by the Doc dual plane mod outlined in the sticky.... :Smarty: I really had to look a the different possibilities before I did the first one,,, I thought , if I do this , there is still the restrictions in the carb throats and that is impossible to change:idea2:... except by changing carbs,,, did not want to do that , already had it set up for a holley,,, and then there was the air cleaner situation,,, again already set up for a holley carb... holleys are very free flowing carbs... so ,, I put my confidence in them and went with opening the stock manifold up... and i was amazed at the difference... not so much on the low end,, but a bunch on mid range and high end... I think Buick did a good job making the intake for stock purposes , but what if they had done what I did ,,,, I think that in a side by side comparison a nailhead with a factory 2x4 set up would come up second best with a DDP manifold and a big holley or other carb.... all other things being equal.... but to get street performance , you must have heat in the manifold... first off , it is a ''divorced'' manifold and as such runs much cooler than the sbb or bbb.... that is why you need the heat , to make the fuel you get now flash into a vapor,,, back in 1966 the public could buy real gasoline,, not the epa cat pee you get now.... it would flash much quicker... so today more than ever before you need the heat... cold air going into the intake/carb,, to the warm manifold, fuel flashes and we are on our way.... :Smarty: The DDP mod increases the amount allowed in,,, the only restriction is the carb... put a 800/950/1050 cfm holley on , and you are really free flowing.... :Brow:
     
  3. Gary Farmer

    Gary Farmer "The Paradigm Shifter"

    Thanks, Doc!
     
  4. SwitchMan

    SwitchMan 2-Steps Forward, X-Steps Backwards

    Excuse me for a basic observation on the original exhaust topic. I just learned from recent research to NOT install exhaust manifold gaskets on the 401. Next time under the hood I'll have to remove them. Why would Fel-Pro include them?
    However, I'm all for those who help us with parts and equipment!
     
  5. CameoInvicta

    CameoInvicta Well-Known Member

    In theory, if both the head and exhaust manifold flanges and "square and true", the gaskets are redundant and not necessary. If you've got them installed, they aren't hurting anything. I've installed mine without and both manifolds leaked like a sieve.
     
  6. doc

    doc Well-Known Member

    heads dont warp much,,, but can be trued up.... manifolds warp the most ... and can be trued up.... put a straight edge on each and see which is out.... and then true them up again and they will work just fine without gaskets on them...
     
  7. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    The metal-metal fit is for heat dissipation. Gaskets tend to insulate/isolate & NOT transfer heat the same. You need to take the manifolds to the machine shop & have them "trued" up & NOT with a belt sander as doing that rounds the edges. Make sure they get cut squarely.


    Tom T.
     

Share This Page