I'm getting ready to install the Willwood HD front and rear disc brake system, and the instructions say to safety wire certain bolts, the bolts are pre-drilled and there are five bolts in one sequence pattern, circular. What is the correct technique to doing this? is it a special type/gauge wire? I'm close to Summit racing here in ohio, so I could get the wire from them if needed. I would appreciate any thoughts on this and or a pic would be very helpful, Thanks, Bruce
I would ask the mauf for their recommendation. Go to your local GA airport that has an A&P. Almost everying on an aircraft is secured that way and they keep safety wire on hand. If need be I can give you the name of a mail order aircraft supplier.
Bruce, I happen to be an A&P mechanic and safety wiring is somewhat a perfected art, but the basis is pretty straight forward. Been doing it for about 10 years. To start with, the thickness of the safetywire you are using dictates how many twists per inch you are going to use. For example wire that is .032 would be about 8 to 10 twists per inch. Anymore than that and the wire will get brittle and be fatigued. On the other hand any less than that and your lockwire will be loose and ineffective I would only lockwire two bolts at a time. Make sure the holes on both bolts are facing away from each other. Example. the top bolt hole or exiting hole should be at about 2 o'clock. The bottom bolt and incoming hole should be at about 8 o'clock. When this is done properly your lockwire should look like a backward letter "S". You're pulling both bolts in a tightening direction. To get your lockwire tight, make the last few twists on your finishing bolt big round circles while doing your twist. The twist should be up against the bolt with no gap. Cut the pigtail off an curl it over in a tightening direction. If you just curl it over with no twist it can come loose. The pigtail will be sharp. MAKE SURE YOU CURL IT OVER!!! Brushing a knuckle or finger over one that is not curled is very painful. I think that's about it. Good luck my friend. John
is there anyway to get a picture I am not doing this process, but I am interested, and I can't seem to figure it out with just words, does somebody have a picture, or better yet, what is the safety behind this (safety Wire) Thanks
Joshe, the main purpose behind safteywire or lockwire is to use a piece of stainless steel wire, loop it though a hole in the head of a bolt, twist both pieces of wire to the other hole in the head of the adjoining bolt in a tightening direction. Both bolts or fasteners will not loosen because the lockwire is pulling on them in a clockwise direction. One bolt will not loosen because it is pulling on the other with the lockwire in a tightening direction. I'll try and see if I can find a picture to post. John
Josh: The wire goes through an eye hole in the head of a bolt, is twisted and the bundle is turned back of of the way. The method describe would when set up properly by the tension on the wire keep the bolts from backing out. The layout in the "s configuration" could keep for example a constant clockwise torque on a right handed thread for both bolts The method he described is what is used for example to secure the bolts through the hub of a propeller to the flange of a crankshaft on a propeller driven aircraft. I always hated to see one of those depart any aircraft I was flying or riding in for that matter. So I have always been a big fan of A&Ps like John knowing the proper technique. On aircraft even the oil filter is required to be safety wired.
Bruce, Josh, if you go to www.byrongliding.com and to the left click on lockwiring, it shows a perfect diagram of various types of lockwiring. All of these can be used on any high performance engine. Automotive or Aviation. John
John: Perhaps you should mention the special pliers you A&Ps use to wrap the safety wire. I have seen a lot of novices that could not get the wrap and the tension correct even while using one. Not as easy as one of you pros make it look.
Good point Jim, there are special pliers out there for lockwiring of which have a sliding lock on them. This lock keeps the pliers clamped down on both pieces of the lockwire while you reach to the rear of the pliers to pull a knob that rotates the pliers and wire together. It helps to make the twists uniform and consistent. A whole lot of twists and not enough all on one lockwire is a shotty job. (imho) Snap-On makes the best and most compact lockwire pliers available. Most of the others are too long and big and when accessabilty is a concern, a smaller tool is better. Yeah I know what thinking. Get your mind out of the gutter. :laugh: John
rc airplanes any of you guys fly RC model airplanes. I got a piper j3 cub this summer with the .46 motor, and I want to learn how to fly it. people say don't try to learn on your own, or you'll be sorry. So you guys know anything about the hobby? I have to wait untill spring for a club to offer flying lessons, just looking for a heads up. Thought maybe somebody who is close to "real birds" might know something Thanks
"Airframe and powerplant" mechanic. There is also an upgade for this certification by the FAA called A&P IA which means A&P with inspection authority. Every aircraft must go through a verry rigid tear down and inspection yearly or every 100 hours of use depending on its type of use. Only an IA can for example sign off on the annual inspection.
Bruce I am an A&P also You have brough up a very good topic. Safetywire is great for any bolt that has a history of coming loose. My header bolts were always coming loose and then the gaskets would blow. I drilled the front and rear pair of bolts and wired them, it has been over three years since replacing the gaskets. You can use a single wire method on the rear bolts since they are a real P.I.A. to twist the wire.
