Runs awesome but alittle hotter than normal?

If the leanness is between idle and 1/4 throttle, main jets wouldn't contribute to much in cooling.

To richen the idle transfer circuit, the one that has much to do from idle to 1/4 throttle, take the metering block off, and look at the rear face of it. The face that mates with the body, has two brass plugs, one in each side, near the bottom of the block, with a drilled hole. This is the fuel delivery oriface for idle and idle transfer.

Make that orfice bigger, and the low speed throttle opening set fuel curve goes richer just off idle to the 1/4 throttle plate openings. The fuel screwqs may need to be turned in to match the fuel now being used at idle, but this would be a normal condition when the fixed oriface is opened up.

 

Drill it to what size?

Thanks

 

George,

Any access to a four-gas analyser, or chassis dyno? I think you have created a lean condition, and it would be MUCH easier to tune it out getting accurate air/fuel readings.

Jeff

 

No i dont,i wish i did but i thought of another thing that might make it run hotter than normal,maybe because the compression ratio went up?my other heads were 69-70cc `70 Buick heads and these are 64-65cc heads,plus i have the JE lightweight flat top pistons w/valve releifs from TA performance and those might be the 11.1 pistons i`m not sure,i bought them 2 years ago when i did my motor,what do u think?

Thanks

 

George,

of course higher comp can increase temps a little maybe, but I could concentrate my efforts on air/fuel mixture, especially idle transfer circuit from the sounds of your condition. What do your plugs look like? and I mean under a microscope. Are you detonating? If you had a pyrometer installed to monitor EGT's, it sure would help. Or an four-gas analysero No: o No:

In short, I'm SURE you need more fuel. Got the Holley HP book??

 

I just took her out for a spin,when moving its fine but if i get stuck in a traffic jam i think it will start creeping up for sure but not as fast w/ the fan on,i didnt pull the plugs since i`ve installed the head yet but i will to take a look at them,i dont think i`m detonating i havent heard any sign of it,my timing is at 34 total and 12 initial,where can i take the car to check up on all that stuff ur telling me?you think i may need a bigger carb?i`m running a 800 double pumper.


Thanks

 

well i just checked two plugs #1 and #3,they look fine,alittle darker on the bottom where the electrode is and the part thats sticks over the electrode is lighter in color,any input?

Thanks

 

Nnno... don't be so quick to give up on that carb yet. But it does need to be recalibrated.

See if you can find Holley book at your local auto parts store, or maybe a book store.

Most or all tune-up shops will have one, a chassis dyno shop prolly would be the best. Could be expensive, laborwise. o No: I would prolly just get a pyrometer which is a temp. sensor put into exhaust to measure temps. This will tell you approx. how rich or lean you are. Or you could get air/fuel gage which is an oxy sensor in the exhaust.

 

I dont know any places around here really that do deal with that stuff,i really dont know what to do at this point,next thing i am going to try is a non-thermal clutch fan on my 7 blade fan because i am running a thermal one,or else i will have to send my carb out for someone to do it,i`m not too smart when it comes to carb stuff to be honest with you,and if that doesnt work it will be the dual fans that i have.o No: as my last resort.

Thanks

 

George, just some suggestions...

ARM1 Air Fuel Ratio Monitor



The ARM1 is a precision, miniature instrument that provides an easy to read, real time indication of the air / fuel ratio of an internal combustion engine. It may be used with either an existing or dedicated EGO (Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor. High impedance, precision circuitry is used to avoid loading the output of the EGO sensor while rejecting noise and preserving accuracy.

The output of the ARM1 is a 10 segment, 5 color LED display. The use of color makes the meter readable with peripheral vision. It is calibrated for a 1V full scale input range and sensitivity of 0.1V per display segment.

The ARM1 is particularly useful with modified engines to assure proper air/fuel ratio. It is an ideal monitoring tool when calibrating engine air/fuel ratio or making adjustments while driving. The ARM1 is designed for use with the Split Second EGO1 Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor.

Features

Five color display can be read with peripheral vision
Dimming feature automatically reduces brightness at night
Miniature size allows wide range of installation options
Differential inputs reject induced noise and preserve accuracy
Signal filtering enhances readability of the display
High input impedance does not effect operation of the EGO sensor
Battery reversal protection
Air Fuel Ratio Monitor w/o 02 Sensor
ARM1 $139.00
Air Fuel Ratio Monitor with 02 Sensor
ARM1A $190.00





___________________________________________

Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor


The EGO1 (Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor is a four-wire sensor that provides a very accurate output voltage which is directly correlated with air / fuel ratio. It is an ideal sensor for use with the ARM1 (Air/Fuel Ratio Meter). The EGO1 features an internal heater which assures accurate readings soon after engine start. EGO1 also features a signal ground which provides accurate readings through the driving cycle.
Part No. EGO2 - $70.00


____________________________________________________



K & N Fuel Air Ratio Monitor



Observe fuel mixture instantly and accurately. Monitors your air / fuel mixture while the vehicle is running. Extremely sensitive to fuel / air ratio changes and will show any variations instantly and accurately. Requires welding sensor adapter to exhaust pipe and a 12v power source. (Fuel injected cars may use the existing oxygen sensor)

Rectangle "Surface Mount" Complete Kit (includes monitor, sensor and weld-on fittings)
K852437 $169.81
Round "In Dash" Complete Kit
(includes monitor, sensor and weld-on fittings)
K852441 $186.89
Rectangle Monitor Only
K852439 $129.99
Round Monitor Only
K852442 $149.99
Oxygen Sensor Only
(includes weld-on fittings)
K852438 $74.99
Weld On Fitting
K8521688 $12.59
O2 Sensor Plug K8521686
$4.99

____________________________________________________

Injector Air Fuel Ratio Monitor



Helps tune your air / fuel ratio and monitors injection system simultaneously. Reads injector cycles precisely - Let's you know when your injectors duty cycle reaches 100% and its time for bigger injectors. Works on virtually any electronic injection system and comes with easy to follow instructions.

TPI Air Fuel Ratio Monitor
RPW9902 $129.99
High Resolution 02 Sensor
RPW9900 $69.99
Weld On Fitting
K8521688 $4.99
O2 Sensor Plug
K8521686 $4.99


http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/

 

do i need all of these or which ones do i need to get?

Thanks

 

No George, I didn't imply that you need ALL or ANY of these. I'm just offering suggestions or alternatives for helping you to tune. Just some products that are available. There are LOTS more, believe me. Some are more accurate than otherso No:

I just feel that there isn't anything wrong with your cooling system, at least what you've described so far. Still think you are running lean. Damn its so hard to help over the internet!

Anyways, just giving you options, doesn't mean you have to do them.. Ask away if you think I'm helpingo No:

Jeff:beer

 

well you`re not going to beleive this,i had a Mr. Gasket 160 thermostat in there that i bought cause i heard they are good,so i said to myself let me change back to my old superstat that was in there with the steel heads maybe it may be the problem,so i switched them today and vualla what d`you know the engine is running at its normal temps again,freakin thermostat i chucked it like a frisby,thanks for everyones input and who would think a thermostat would be the culprit:beer :beer

 

Wasnt it me?:Smarty:

 

It sure was Jim,but who would think its a stupid ol` thermostat.

Thanks again:TU:

 

George,

I have been fooling around with these cars for 20 years. Believe me, the HARDEST thing to do is to check the simplest things first.

 

Yep!:TU: :laugh:

 

you are absolutly right,i should`ve checked the simple stuff first but did`nt think it would be the problem since it was brand new,go figure.

Thanks

 

George,
Was it a different temp.thermostat? Or just a different 160 degree manufacturer??o No:
I've been following your problem and I'd like to know exactly what the culpret was. I'm glad you got it squared away:TU:

 

I originally had a T-stat 160' but i`ve heard that the Mr.Gasket thermostat was suppost to be a better one for cooling purposes so i went ahead and ordered one again 160,so i installed it when i did the head swap,then i thought let me just swap back to my old thermostat and that was the problem,it didnt seem dirty or anything but its a different looking thermostat all together,thank god its back to normal again,i was freaking out to what it might`ve been,i do not recommend that Mr. Gasket one for anyone.


Thanks