My guess is that they are waiting for TRS (Australia) to deplete their stock before ordering another run of castings. Don't know if bare heads are available from TRS or not. The exchange rate may give a price competitive with the TA price. Or not. I've seen it close but not equal, but I also haven't been watching it. The TA heads can go up to a 2" intake with the 1.6" exhaust but as mentioned shrouding can become a concern. I was able to install 1.6" exhaust valves and 1.9" intakes in the bare heads as shipped with no siamesing of the seats required. I think that'll be plenty good enough for a forced induction motor with 346 cid in a 2700lb car. The flow potential increase over the OEM 300 or Rover heads is considerable. Also the limitation of installed spring height is not a concern with the TA heads and a 1.7 or 1.8" installed height should raise no serious issues, whereas the Rover head uses a 1.560" installed height. I'm also pretty satisfied with TA's 7/16" stud mounted individual roller type rocker arms and they fit under the repop MG aluminum rocker covers with just a slight relief in the oil filler boss. Price is competitive with similar aftermarket Chevy items which is to say, affordable. Jim
Should be some info in this threads that you can use: http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?6,70952 Jim
I'm actually going to try the stock retainers and keepers from TA, they're 11 degree so they should work if I'm not mistaken.
Also quick question, what spark plugs did you go with for your rover heads? I'm not sure how using Buick ignition with them would affect plug choice
The ones specified for the Rover heads should do just fine. There is a thread on this over on MGExperience/engine swaps. Pay attention to thread length and heat range but also a sealing washer for aluminum heads. Jim
Thank you, I see rockauto has a lot of different ones listed, I'll look through them and find one that matches all the criteria. I think this is the thread you mention: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mg-engine-swaps-forum.40/spark-plugs-for-the-rover-3-5l.464629/
When putting the alternator bracket from the buick onto the rover heads, I found that it doesn't line up with the right bolt hole. Would using a stock rover bracket work, or would it not line up the alternator correctly?
You have to make a dual pattern adapter for the heads and spacer for crank and water pump pulleys to use the Buick brackets. If the Rover head is thick enough in the right places you may be able to drill and tap for the Buick locations.
I'll look into making the adapter and spacers, don't really want to mess with drilling into the heads. I'm wondering if maybe I could weld the buick bracket and alternator arm onto the head where the one bolt doesn't quite line up, could possibly be the easiest way out.
