Rollmaster Timing Gear Question

I'm sure some of you are using the Rollmaster 9-position double roller timing set in your 455's. I have a question. How tight is the crank gear supposed to fit? I cannot get that gear on. It goes on about 3/4" and then stops, and requires force, a lot of it. Is it supposed to be a press fit? The damper goes on and off by hand, more-or-less, it needs a little force but nothing like the gear seems to need. It's not the woodruff key because I removed it - no difference. The snout is in perfect condition. The instructions read like they were translated from some foreign language, but it sounds like they want you to "persuade" it with a pipe over the crank snout and a hammer. But if I do this, then I'll never get it off again without a puller or without heating it. This doesn't seem right to me. All other gears I have used are just a slightly snug interference fit, like the damper is. Did I get a bad set or are they all like this? (BTW, the cam gear fits fine).

Any and all help, insights, recommendations are much appreciated.

Thanx.

Larry

 

Thanks Larry.

The more I learn about this Rollmaster timing set the more I'm convinced that it's a POS. I'll see what I can to try and make this work.

Thanks again.

Larry

 

There is probably just a "burr" in there somewhere... hit it with some emery cloth or fine sand paper and it will slide right on. Not all "burrs" are something you can feel... you're dealing with things that .001 of an inch can make all the difference here...

take a deep breath... it's not a big deal...:beer

 

Whoa. I had this problem with ALL my crank gears. The claw hammer trick made Jim Weise wince, but it was the only way to get them off.

Turns out my keyway pin was too tall and had to be filed down a few thou.

If this is your ONLY gear that gets stuck, file the gear keyway, if they all get stuck then file the pin.

 

Thanks Jeff.

But it's not the keyway pin. I removed the pin but it didn't make any difference. I found that if I flip the gear over and try to put it on backwards with the wrong side facing toward the block, then it's even tighter. This tells me that the gear was not machined right from the get-go....the bore has a slight taper to it, probably no more than .0005" - .001" or so. Or maybe it has a slight burr, as Ken suggested, toward the outer edge. I'm going to try and polish it up with some crocus cloth and see if I can get it to go on. If it doesn't work out then keep your eyes on the "Pay It Forward" section.

Larry

 

If it ain't tight, it ain't f'n right!

Seriously though, mine was the same way. I just honed 'lightly' with a brake cyl hone and a drill motor. I barely took any metal off, and it fit much better. It's supposed to be a press fit. Not a real good idea to be pounding gear onto the crank. Bad for thrust bearing. After I honed the inside (and oiled), I used a large socket and a rubber mallet. It went on with a little force.o No: I still have to use a gear puller to get it back off (which I've had to do MANY times).

I hope this helps you, don't give up yet!:TU: :beer

 

My Rollmaster was marked off a tooth from the factory. To install a cam "straight up" I need to advance the cam gear one tooth which is 14-15 degrees I think, and then I have to line up that tooth with the 4 retarded marks on the crank gear.

If I use the 8 advance key way and the factory mark on the cam gear, the cam is still two degrees retarded.o No:

 

Seems like mine was tight too, but didn't require brute force. The thing I remember was it was mis-marked by 4 degrees. By all means, DEGREE YOUR CAM (yes I was shouting). And have fun getting clearance on the fuel pump arm. And if you run a distributor gear oiler, check that clearance veeerry carefully......

 

Ok. Got it!

I polished and polished and polished the ID of the gear with crocus cloth. It a lot better now - still tight but at least it's within reason. I got it to the point where, as Jeff (grant455gs)mentioned, it requires some tapping with a sleeve and plastic mallet to put it on, and requires a puller to get it off, but at least it's usable. Now all I have to deal with is the possible timing mark error.

Thanks to all. :TU:

Larry

 

SWEET!!