1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
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  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Riv headliner removal

Discussion in 'A boatload of fun' started by Rivdrivn, Sep 1, 2009.

  1. Rivdrivn

    Rivdrivn Driving a Riv for 40 years

    I'm having no luck trying to remove the metal trim pieces that run inside the the whole length of the side windows. Everything else came out easily. Is this somehow anchored to the outside chrome trim or should I just pull real hard?
     
  2. roboteq-1@hotma

    roboteq-1@hotma 76 T Top

    On my regal they were held in by clips that look like the letter "C" that has been squashed to about 3/8" flat with the ends of the "C" almost bent double and paralell to the long part- you'll see when you get one out. Yes you have to muscle them out-I used my fingertips and pried down, but no, they are not bolted or otherwise held-just the clips. You'll probably wreck a couple so see if you can find some spares- Go practice at the junks! kill 2 birds with one stone!- they should be pretty much the same on similarly sized trim on other models.
    Robert
     
  3. Yardley

    Yardley Club Jackass

    As I recall, on my 69 Riv, once you remove the screwa the pieces just pull off. They could be stuck from some headliner adhesive.
     

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