1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
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  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Restoring a 1966 Buick Wildcat

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by Dean Gullberry, May 26, 2017.

  1. I just purchased a 1966 4dr Buick Wildcat on June 25th. I plan on restoring it and am hoping to get some helpful tips and guidance from you all! I will post pictures and update my progress throughout the entire process. 20170525_170858.jpg
     
    Mazoh65 and VA_64 like this.
  2. John Codman

    John Codman Platinum Level Contributor

    Welcome aboard Dean. You will find all sorts of help here. I see that your car has a few body issues, but is not showing a lot of rust. Are you doing a "driving restoration" or going the whole frame up process? If it's the former, make it safe first. Check every inch of all brake and fuel lines - including all flex hoses. Do the same for everything between the steering wheel and the front tires. One thing that I do with an older new-to-me car after looking at all of the brake lines is to do a stationary pressure test. I step on the brake pedal just as hard as I can with the engine running in Park. If it blows a brake line or hose, you have had the failure under the safest possible circumstance. If it doesn't, now you know that the hydraulic system is safe. Do not think for even a minute that you cannot have a total brake failure because it has a tandem master cylinder. Ask me how I know!
     
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  3. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    Good advice John!
    And yes, 1966 was the last year for the single master cylinder. The car weighs 2 tons and has drum brakes, so going through the whole brake system is a must. Watch the line going to the back, particularly around the rear axles, the flex line going over the differential and the solid lines going to each of the rear wheels is a common failure point on these cars.
     
  4. Wildcat GS

    Wildcat GS Wildcat GS

    Hi Dean,
    I have several `66 Wildcats including a 4-dr hardtop which I love. Personally I think the 4-dr hardtop body is the most attractive and functional model, especially so on the huge `50`s cars but also on the `66 Wcat. Feel free to send me a PM if I can offer any advice, good luck!
    Tom Mooney
     
    Mazoh65 and Elizabeth Adler like this.
  5. Elizabeth Adler

    Elizabeth Adler New Member

    Hello Tom,
    My boyfriend recently picked up a 66 Wildcat 4dr hard top that we plan to restore.
    It sounds like you are very familiar with these vehicles. We are hoping you might be able to help us replace the heater core. He has been trying since yesterday and he just cant seem to figure it out. Could you walk him through it?
    Thank you so much!
    Liz & Paul
     
  6. PGSS

    PGSS Silver Level contributor

    Welcome:) Same car and same color as just about that my pops bought new. Except ours was a post..
    I wouldn't just check the brake lines, I would change every single line, every single flex line and all the wheel cylinders even if they look good.
    Even though you have a single master cylinder I have had like "John" mentioned lost all brakes on a dual master when blowing a rear wheel cylinder. It's not suppose to but it happens..
    Parking brake to also should be working..
    Get to know that you should have a dual stall torque converter if the tranny is original and it will launch you nice..:D
     
  7. mobileparts123

    mobileparts123 Well-Known Member

    Congrats on the new ride.....
    If you are going to replace parts --- and Don't want to go the Chineseum route of today's parts stores (they have no choice but to sell the garbage...),
    I have NICE N.O.S. U.S.A. made parts ---
    The correct (single) & the dual conversion Master cylinders, the wheel cylinders, the brake Hoses, the brake shoes, and wheel bearings & seals.
    Also Front End, Motor & Transmission Mounts,
    Fuel Pumps, Water Pumps -- All NEW --
    Ignition & Electrical, and a whoooooooole lot more!!!!!
     

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