Ok - I think the issue is that I asked the wrong question... What I really want to do is get rid of the external regulator on my car. I thought that going with a 1-wire unit was the way, maybe it's not so- Here's my previous post: http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=115748 Here's the new question: "What's the best way to get rid of the external regulator so I can clean up my engine for a nicer look? Anyone have an application (eg - 1978 LeSabre or Caprice or ???, XX amp alternator) that I can use w/ the kit from MAD wiring?" Looks like the 3-wire unit is a better choice. Just need an application so I can buy the unit. Thanks! Paul
With only 15 minutes of very simple rewiring you can install a DL7194-6-3. This is a 94 amp Duralast Alternator, properly clocked for the BBB but normally installed in a late '80s GM G-body car. Fits directly into the stock brackets. All you need is the alternator and a new pigtail also available at Autozone. I also suggest getting some fresh 10 guage wire to plug this directly into the battery. You will need to remove and replace the serpentine pulley with the pulley from your Buick's alternator; easy. The directions for the rewire are at George's website. I found the work even easier than these directions sound. http://buickperformance.com/alternat.htm Total cost: about $80. Say goodbye to your external regulator.
I replaced my alternator with an internally regulated one from a junk yard. The wiring was easy, and I've not had a problem. I'm not sure of the details of the "one-wire" - but on my setup I jumped the exciter for low rpm charing. It was easy, but took some time to match up alternators, swap pulleys, etc. I was also doing some major rewiring, so I can't say exactly how long the alternator part took.
I just finished installing a 140 amp cs144 alt in my '66 special w/340, a non-A/C car. I'l try and get pics uploaded eventually. It was a very simple setup, and is putting out 14.6V at idle. My headlights no longer dim with engine RPM, even on highbeam. The alt came from a 1995 Olds Silhouette minivan with a 3.8L V6. A quick search on car-part.com will give a cross reference on what other GM cars had this alt. The key is to get an alt with the wiring clocked correctly, and the mounting points 180* aparts. I did have to clearance my mount and the backside of the alt a very small amount, and I also had to make the adjusment slot in the top mounting bracket larger to use a 3/8" bolt instead of a 5/16". Wiring was easy, and can be found on a few websites, I only had to purchase a larger alt to batt cable, and one ring terminal. everything else I either had on hand, or came with the junkyard alt. i went to: http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref14.html http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/cs130.php http://www.hotrodlane.cc/newhtml/smallalt.html the 130 and 144 alternators are the same except for case size and amp output. I used a 4 ga bat wire with ring terminals on both ends to go from the alt to the battery. Wired the volt sensing wire to the main + on the starter, and the other wire from the alt to the blue wire that went to my original 40amp alt, and it goes to the gen light on my dash. I also did the external regulator bypass shown on the chevelle webpage listed above.
I did this mod on my 68 Riviera and it is super easy. Go for it! Although there is really nothing wrong with the stock set-up-- til it breaks!
If there are any questions regarding the alternator "clocking," the MAD website has directions on how to both wire the internally regulated alternator, and how to "read" the cl;ocking, as well as APPLICATIONS required for both the current capacity and the correct clocking. In other words, if the alternator is clocked at three o'clock, for example, and you want a particular current capacity, the MAD website will provide an application, say for a 1985 big block Chevy, will have the required capacity, and clocking. Further, that website provides a numbering system rebuilders use to properly equip an alternator foir an application, in the event you want one upgraded. This website has been invaluable to me as I am constantly upgrading customers' vehicles, modifying the wiring to provide both correct operation and upgrades for instrumentation as well. Ray
reclocking an alternator the easy way :laugh: pull the 4 thru-bolts out...take the pulley nut off,remove fan & pulley....pull the front housing up the shaft,while pressing down on the rotor shaft,rotate to your posistion...reverse procedure for assembly.this way the rotor doesnt come out of the rear housing,releasing the brush springs into god knows where :Smarty:
I was thinking about buying an alternator from summit (PWM-8060) but this looks nice. Do you think 94 amps would be enough to power: MSD 6AL, two step rev control, electric fans, electric water pump, stereo, power windows, power seats, etc? One question about the installation (from http://buickperformance.com/alternat.htm), it says to solder the blue wire to the brown wire (tat used to go to the voltage regulator), and connect the blue wire to the 1 post on the back of the alternator, im guessing i can shorten those wires to clean it up a bit and make a straight connection to wherever it needs to go, but since that wire turns the alternator on or off, could i put a toggle on that wire and let it charge and if/when i need the power turn the alternator off (only worth about 10 hp probably) or is that a bad idea? Is there any problem just running the alternator wire to the battery post on the starter? Ammeter gauges say not to run an alternator with a higher amp output than the gauge reads when hooked to the gauge (typically 60 amps), would it be good to follow this "rule" or is anyone still running an ammeter gauge on these alternators?
If you would detail the voltage regulator and the filter capacitor ( now reproed) that would take car of your cosmetic concerns.
Jim: Actually, I'd like to get rid of the regulator altogether because I'd like to "de-junk" my engine compartment. I'm also seriously thinking of cutting some metal out of the inner fenders and that's where the regulator currently sits. My other thought was to just relocate the unit, especially now that you've told me that replacments are being made. I just want a cleaner looking engine compartment, and getting rid of the regulator and harness seems like a good place to start. Paul
