Repairing a 1968-69 Core Support/inner fender (It doesn't look original)

I have been working through my SUPER rusty battery area on my 1968.

There is an excellent thread here where Duane shows how to do this properly:

https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?t...t-so-it-looks-original-once-installed.363432/

I do not have any where to take the car apart, or an indoor shop, or welding equipment. So my repair is not so elegant.

First, I started by removing the Battery and the block of wood I had wedged in there supporting it. This was followed by "Good Lord! How did that Battery stay put?".

Although it's hard to identify a car in this picture, the inner fender is to the right, and the core support to the left.

Next I made a template of a repair panel with cardboard.


This is basically the design I went with, some minor changes, but it reaches up in the top right of the photo to the good steel on the inner fender and seems like it fits.

I then trimmed away the rusted steel that I deemed too far gone to provide any support.


I took a photo of the cardboard and imported into my computer.



I opened the photo in a free software called LibreCAD which is design software. This allowed me to make an accurate scale rendering of the shape.

I found an outfit online which is called Send Cut Send, which accepts these drawings and laser cuts the shape you want out of a variety of different material. I chose Aircraft grade aluminum .063".

Three days later, this arrived at my door (total cost $45.00 US):



Next I started working on the rusted metal. First I used a wire brush on my drill to scrub of as much rust as I could from the whole area and the underside. Then I used some 50 grit sandpaper to get at spots I couldn't reach with the drill.

I used three products I bought at the local auto parts store. All Dupli-Color. I figure they are less likely to be incompatible that way.

1) Dupli-Color "RUST FIX" Basically a spray can of Phosphoric acid rust neutralizer. I did this three times, with some scrubbing in between.

2) Duplicolor "Primer-Sealer"
3) Duplicolor "Acrylic Lacquer" in Semi-gloss black.

I ended up experiencing a small while I am here™ moment that involved me removing a bunch of stuff from the inner fender and scrubbing, sanding and painting that too.



Yesterday and today we had a couple of milder and rain free days, which is rare at this time of year in Seattle. I was able to get the prep and paint done.

I pre folded the aluminum panel (after making some holes in it).


And then carefully fit into it's new home. After some drilling and screwing (I used 1/2" #6 stainless screws)


One more photo so you can see the shiny inner fender...

Overall, It seems to fit well and is extremely strong, especially compared the giant hole it replaced. The fasteners are exposed in the fender well and at the front of the core support, so I will have to touch those up with some black to hide my shame.

I am going to work up some kind of Battery hold down from the stuff in my garage...

Making this gives me new respect for the excellence and skill of the metal workers on this site that routinely make incredible and beautiful repairs to the bodies and frame of these cars. Of course I primarily have hand tools and C clamps, so my work is very rudimentary...

I need to update my CAD drawing with several changes/fixes including the notch I added for the plastic headlight bezel standoff which I failed to do originally. If there is any interest, please PM me.

 

I think this is great, Max. You engineered a durable, affordable replacement that won't be rusting out again. Thanks for sharing the pictures, I may need to do a similar job on my car.

 

Looks good. You should be able to paint it black and bolt a regular battery box in now. It won't be that noticeable at all.

This should work with a hold down as well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1969-...-GS-Battery-Tray-Kit-Steel-BK682/182260675406