1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice
New users Registered with a gmail address Attention All new Users 67-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recast Group buy

Removing 350 Dipstick Tube

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by 72 V Code, Sep 18, 2002.

  1. 72 V Code

    72 V Code 71 72 GS GSX Fan

    Hey All,
    I'm almost embarrassed to ask this but is there a trick to removing the dipstick tube on a Buick 350?I have the dipstick out and have removed the only 2 bolts i see that attach the tube,one small one and a larger one down in behind the exhaust manifold,hard as heck to get to,now shouldn't the tube just pull out?Or do i need to take the oil pan off and take something loose from in there?The exhaust manifold is still on and the engine is still in the car.Don't want to bend the tube or crimp it as i have it sold and need to get it off.Never dreamed i run into snag on this.....:mad:
    Thanks,Jeff
     
    72 V Code, Sep 18, 2002
    #1
  2. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Jeff,
    I'm sure it just pulls straight out. I bought a dipstick and tube for my 455 and it attached with just 1 bolt near the exhaust stove. Nothing on the bottom, just pushed it in with some grease. It was a tight fit, took me awhile, just kept rotating and pushing gently. Try spraying it down with PBblaster or WD-40.
     
    LARRY70GS, Sep 18, 2002
    #2
  3. 72 V Code

    72 V Code 71 72 GS GSX Fan

    I'll Spray It Down

    Larry,
    Thanks for the tip,i'll spay it down where the tube enters with WD-40 and let it soak awhile.I thought it should pull right out after removing the 2 bolts.Let me tell you i pulled so hard on it today that my stomach muscles are sore:eek2: Think i might have strained something-ouch!
    I put the wire pliers on it once,but saw right away that was going to crimp it if i put much brute force on it.Just when you think you seen it all something new rear's it's ugly head:moonu:
    Guess i'll get it out sooner or later......Jeff
     
    72 V Code, Sep 18, 2002
    #3
  4. BillMah52

    BillMah52 Well-Known Member

    Jeff,
    I have run into this same problem on several occassions.
    Snapped a few before an older hotrodder than myself gave me a little helpful tech advice.
    Go out to the hardware store and buy the miniature version of what I call a wonder bar (carpenter tool). Its a very small nail and tack puller.
    Has a flat end and a 90* bent end. Has V-notches.
    Place the flat end v-notch flat against the block where the tube flange(bulge) meets. If you have to - tap gently around the tube as far as you can reach.
    This should break the seal enough so you can GENTLY twist it out.
    Good Luck! :grin:
     
    BillMah52, Sep 18, 2002
    #4
  5. 72 V Code

    72 V Code 71 72 GS GSX Fan

    Got it Out!

    In case anyone is interested i got the tube out.One of those supposed easy jobs that went to hell in a heartbeat!
    Thank s for the tips.I'm sure it would have been much easier if the engine was out and on a stand.
    Later,Jeff
     
    72 V Code, Sep 25, 2002
    #5

Share This Page