Regal 350 swap A/C delete now what?

Discussion in 'V-8 Buick Powered Regals' started by Tim, Nov 9, 2006.

  1. Tim

    Tim Silver Level contributor

    I bought an 87 Regal that has a 350 swap, the valve cover was hitting the a/c box and cracked the plastic housing. The previous owner took out all of the A/C and now there is no way to control the temperature inside the car as all of the vacuum stuff was removed from under the hood, the lines are still there. I have the temperature control valve and want to install it however I do not know what vacuum line to hook it up to to control the coolant that flows through the heater core, right now the coolant is always flowing through the heater core so always blowing hot.
    Any ideas?
    Thanks
    Tim
     
  2. Rusty

    Rusty Dragbikes Rock !

    I just finished putting my 71's GS 350 wTurbo 350 in an 86' Regal, I have about 3/8th" to 7/16ths" from that back corner of my valve cover to the A/C units housing, it is a pretty close fit, but proper fitting should have kept it clear from touching. Anyway, from under the fan blowers housing is a grey and a tan hardline vacuum tube, if memory serves I think the tan one goes to the coolant flow valve, and the grey is vacuum supply to the heater/AC unit controller that needs an engine source vacuum. I may be wrong, but it'll be easy to figure out. Heck mine are both connected to vacuum lines and your post reminds me I'll need to clamp off 1 heater hose when I don't want hot air flowing. I don't have the coolant flow valve on either of my 86 Regal's, I just had problems with them, so I just clamp off the forward flow hose to keep hot air from blowing.

    Amazing I really thought the car would have a bunch more GittyUP Go being in a Regal which is much lighter then my GS, but the 2.14 rear gears are killin it :laugh:
     
  3. Vern

    Vern Well-Known Member

    2.14! Blech. I bet with a set of 3.23 you would not believe its the same car. :3gears:
     
  4. RATROASTER

    RATROASTER BPG#1291, GS-CA#2265


    Make sure you save those 2.14's incase you want to enter a Trans-Siberia Race! Its all about the gas mileage! :laugh:
     
  5. Rusty

    Rusty Dragbikes Rock !

    Well I've only buzzed around the neighborhood with the 26" tall rear wheels from my GS also on this Regal, so with 2.14 gears my gearing calculation sheet shows roughly 70mph+ @ redline and before I'd have to shift to 2nd. Not exactly setup for a quarter miler, but this Regal is going to be my daily driver as I change off from my Grey 86' Regal I'm driving, see this car spent some years in Ohio, and even though it looks in nice shape on the outside, it's a complete RUST bucket underneath even holes in the back frame. This white 86' Regal I've put the 350 in and will eventually paint black to make a GN clone is an Arizona completely Rust free car.

    http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k320/IMA_Nightmar/Picture203.jpg

    My GS now with a 468 will be more what I'd want to take to the track, so the Regal can probably keep it's gearing since my purpose is hopefully a little better mpg then the Olds 307, and certainly better power, those 80's Old's 307's only rated 150Hp and it's pathedic once pulling a hill. I want my driver to have enough power to pull the mountain highways at 75 still with little throttle, not 3/4 pushed down, and constant downshifting, Waaaaaaaa, shift, mph slows, Waaaaaaaaa, shift etc etc etc. :Dou:

    I couldn't imagine the G-bodies with the v6, Eee-gads that must have really been sad.

    For kicks I'll probably eventually put my Grey Regals front wheels on the back which are only 22.5" tall, and see how well it accelerates just to see. It's the easiest way to gear ratio it down without changing the rearend out. If I still don't like it after I run through a few full tanks, checking mpg, I may split the difference between the 2.14's & 3.08's in my GS, something like 2.55's or 2.70's, just so it isn't running 2800rpm to go 70 like it did in the GS. The Regal has much smaller wheel wells, but as long as I keep tires no wider then 9 or 10" I could go up to about 28"-29" diameter.
     
  6. Tim

    Tim Silver Level contributor

    TTT
    Can someone please post a vacuum diagram for the heater and vent controls both under the dash and under the hood for my 86 Regal?
    I do not have any of the A/C left under the hood. All of the hard vacuum lines are there but disconnected, I have the large plastic vacuum canister but it is not installed, I need to know where it goes and to what it hooks up to. It was
    -2 degrees this morning and my son needs to be able to control the vents.........
    Thanks
    Tim
     
  7. GS464

    GS464 Hopelessly Addicted

    307 Olds Sucks

    When the kids got that *THAT* age where they wanted a car, and knowing how well they drove, my wife and I figured it was when rather than if they had an accident. So we bought them a 1988 Chevy Caprice Wagon. The big one, like the Electra wagon. It had the 307 in it. That thing was more than a little tired by the time we got the car.

    We decided with six teens to take the Whale as it was known on vacation. It was so underpowered that I actually had semi trucks honking at me because I was going so slow on some of the 6% grades. Just two lanes. :rolleyes: :Dou:

    Put a rebuilt 307 in it after that. Got better mileage but not really any more power. :spank:
     
  8. Rusty

    Rusty Dragbikes Rock !


    Hi Tim, I see no one's responded yet so I'll try and lend a hand. There are only 2 hard vacuum lines that come out by the heater core/ evap housing under the hood, one's Gray, one's Pink. If you have the stock engine setup, 1 goes to the coolant flow cut off, which blocks hot coolant from flowing threw the heater core when in the A/C positions, and on the stock Old's 307 the shutoff valve is on the back left (leaning over the front) next to the distributor. This is the Gray one for shut off coolant when the AC/Heater control is in the first 3 A/C positions. The Pink one needs to be hooked to manifold vacuum and is the supply vacuum to the AC/Heater control inside for air flow switching, for air to change up from blowing (default) on the floor, up to the vents, and or Defrost to blow on windshield.

    I'm not sure on the V6 Regals location but I would bet the vacuum lines are the same throughout all the G-Bodies.

    As for the plastic vacuum housings, I'm not sure which one your talking about there are 3, the carbon vacuum can that pulls fuel tank fumes is the largest cylinder type that sits in it's well. Above that there is 1 sphere can with 2 lines that mount to the radiator core support right above the cylinder one, this is supply vacuum for emissions valve's that switch from the belt driven blower pump (most people take off), that pumps fresh air to the CAT, and exhaust recirculation. It's other line goes to manifold supply vaccum. If your in a strict emission's State sometimes they require you have that useless blower item. There's another Sphere mounted can up under the fender well hidden inside, in fender from the battery tray, this is engine vacuum storage for power brakes etc and has 1 line to it that goes to manifold vacuum for storing more vacuum during engine low vacuum moments. Good luck.
     
  9. Tim

    Tim Silver Level contributor

    Thanks for the info, the Regal had a V6 but the previous owner swapped out the V6 for a 350. I want to be able to control the air flow through the vents and or floor vents as the vacuum lines are disconnected under the hood. Those darn plastic lines are very brittle and one has broken several times. I will see what I can rig up tonight. The 350 has a T/A aluminum intake so I do not see any manifold vacuum supply other than for the brake booster, it also has a Holley 650 carb that does have one vacuum supply plugged in the front of the carb, I will try that as a vacuum source.
    Thanks
    Tim
     

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