I had also cosidered the 3.90's as well. The car will never see the highway but I also want to try and keep the revs down even on a girdled block. Thanks again for all your help guys now I have to get this housing stripped down for blasting.
OK so I have figured out what I am doing with the rear end. Next Question is what about the yoke? I know there are different sizes available. 1310 and 1350 I think? It is going cost under $300 to have the new housing ends welded on so I figured that is the way to go.
Built a similiar 12 bolt for local GSX clone a few years back (before the new 33 spline HD Eaton posis were released). Housing was jigwelded (TIG) in the lineup bar with tapered bearing (GM) weld-on ends. Was further assembled with Moser tapered bearing 30 spline axles, 30 spline Brute strength (HD Eaton carrier, thin (4 series) 3.73's, & used oem 3R u-joint flange. In 3800 lb GSX clone which runs a progressive spray set-up, the car has seen very low 10 sec 1/4's. Car is regular driven street car & has been to the track a ton. Today I'd build same rear with lh billet cap & a 33 spline Eaton, just because I've seen quite a few oem 12bolt lh caps fail, & due to 33 spline Eaton carrier being available. Chris, considering a u-joint flange (yoke) swaps, it might be a good idea, esp if you plan on upgrading the driveshaft. New Spicer 1350 & 1330 yokes are available for the 12bolt. If going back with the oem 3R 12 bolt yoke, when doing final assembly, I've found it smart to use a garden variety chevy (1310) 12 bolt yoke to help compress the crushsleeve, until pinion drag is 10 inch lbs... then install the 3R yoke & watch the drag, as crushsleeve is compressed the last tiny bit. The main concern is to make sure the tool attached to the 3R yoke with two bolts, lockwashers & nuts is fully tightened, so the bolts will not rock back & forth. It's very easy to chip the corners out of the 3R 12 bolt yokes, if one is not very careful...been there Wanting to upgrade to new Spicer 1350 yoke, I'm always buying decent used 3R 12 bolt yokes. Feel free & drop me an e-mail resto_services@yahoo.com, if I can be of any help. :3gears: Roger
Good Advice! All good advice from Roger. I do away with the crush sleeve and use spacer and shims like a Dana so I don't have to fight crushing the sleeve. This really paid off when I had to replace the ring and pinion on a rainy Friday night at a Dragstrip 800 miles from home to race the next day. The caps are a good idea also. There is a lot better stuff available today for a 12 bolt. Jim N.
I am going to have a custom driveshaft built. I am hoping for 700 ponies from the Stage 2 mill. The 1330 and 1350 yokes are a different size I am assuming?
Chris, just make sure that you do have a chevy 12 bolt (eye brow on the rear cover) and not just 12 bolts on a 8.2 axle.
Rob, yes the cover has the eye brow. Besides I have already gutted it and sent it to be blasted. Did you move from Dearborn to Flat Rock?
The Spicer 1350 yoke is larger. This sized yoke was used on some bigger Ford trucks, & has since become popular in the aftermarket. Spicer 1350 sized yokes are also avail for the 8.5 rear. With 700 hp, on the motor, the 1350 yoke makes sense. :3gears: Roger
Yep, moved almost a year ago. Only about 17 miles from you... Typically the strongest u-joints do NOT have grease fittings. Dana Spicer makes some good ones, there may be better though. I've run the same Dana Spicer u-joints for the last 6 years without any issues. HTH
a little late with this... I run a 10 bolt with 30 spline strange axles/gears/spool and bearings. I does very well on the street even with a manual gear box from an S-10. The reason a spool is NOT RECCOMENDED is the C-clip eliminator is not designed for lateral loads. They are designed for drag racing were these loaded are not seen. What happenes is the axle will more side too side and eat up the seals and if enough side load is applied the bear may pop out.
