Rear Main Seal Replacement Instructions:

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by sean Buick 76, Nov 21, 2006.

  1. jbird76

    jbird76 Well-Known Member

    Does this board have a section of write ups on how to do some of these jobs? I belong to a VW Passat automotive board (granted many of the users are probably not as handy as they are here- and don't make fun of me) that has a section where people can post write ups with pictures and tips etc. It has been helpful for a couple odd things I have had to perform.

    Just a thought.
  2. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    The sticky up top on this page has a bunch of info and the FAQ section has GREAT info on power timing your buick. MUST READ
  3. 1967 Big Buick

    1967 Big Buick One day at a time.

    What name brand are the seals that are Neoprene I just looked at 2 different rear main seal kits and both piece's are rope.

    This will be hard with rope to replace the top half between the block and the crank..

    SS-TRUCK Stage 1 X

    They make a special tool to pull the rope in on the top side . Its a wire with a net like form on the end that the rope goes into so you can pull and cuss it into place , also helps if you rotate the crank while pulling the rope into place , a real pain .
  5. TT-T56'D-RMS

    TT-T56'D-RMS Active Member

  6. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    its a ford part # for a 460 but TA carries it with the side chalks if you need those as well. I'll look up the #...
  7. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    bump for newbies
  8. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    The ford 460 rear main fits PERFECT in the 350:

    The Ford 460 part number is E9AZ-6701-A

    or D2VE-6701-AA

    or NAPA # NGA JV618
  9. mazzy70

    mazzy70 Bill

    I just did this on the 455 not to long ago..Another good trick that worked for me was I took a long skinny screw and screwed it into the end of the rope seal probably a good 1/4 to 3/8 inch into the rope. After that I got a pair of vise grips and gave it a few tugs pulling it out about 2 inches..Then I grabbed it with the vice grips and pulled it out the rest of the way..I turned the motor when using the screw, but didn't turn it when I had the grips on it..Pulled right out..
    Another thing to remember is watch close with the screw..You don't want to pull a bonehead and run the screw along the bearing surface, or into it..That's BAD..:TU:
  10. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    I am about to do this job for the 3rd time:pray:. I am amused because it feels REALLY easy, after doing jobs like swapping cams, the X-Factor, and the 200r4 swap. :laugh: Except all of those have been successful. I'm going to use the Ford 460 seal and hopefully git-r-done.:pp
  11. alrobjr

    alrobjr big papa

    hey peters its my 3rd time to installing the rear main seal .do you have a picture of what is called the lip part of the seal ,i think i installed mines wrong.i will really appreiate the infomation .:Do No:
  12. 71skylark3504v

    71skylark3504v Goin' Fast In Luxury!

    Look at the seal here.

    The larger side of the seal with the groove, I believe, faces the front of the motor.
  13. jeff0547

    jeff0547 Beaters are Better

    I know that this is an old thread, but just in case you don't know...

    has many write ups on how to do almost anything regarding Skylarks / GS / Specials as well as other similar GM "A" bodies. Scroll about half way down and look for the section that says:

    "64-72 Skylark / GS Tech".

    It's a great resource.
    in SW FLA
  14. jay3000

    jay3000 RIP 1-16-21

    Well. Just finished this little job. It was easier for me since this was a new engine and all of the bolts had been out before.

    I installed the neoprene seal.. NAPA/ Felpro # BS 40032. I did the job from the bottom and it wasn't bad at all. Basically follow Sean's instructions but you will have to drop the exhast pipes, and remove the bolts that hold the engine in and jack it up at some point to remove two bolts that are right over the frame. You can jack up the engine from the front on the balancer. The pan comes right out.

    The seal was harder to install in the block than I thought it would be. As I pushed it up into the grove in the block it would shave off a tiny bit of the rubber on the backside of the seal. I had to use needle nose pliers to push the seal into place.

    100 miles and still dry as a bone.. Before, I was leaving a puddle everywhere I stopped. The oil was leaking onto the flexplate and slinging everywhere..
  15. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Awesome, glad it worked for you!
  16. Jim Blackwood

    Jim Blackwood Well-Known Member

    One thing you guys might want to consider is that scotchbrite is an abrasive and will leave a small amount of grit behind. Probably not enough to hurt anything, but why not just flush it out so there's less of it to worry about?

  17. Johns40

    Johns40 Active Member

    I have a 73 350 with the Regal subframe in a 40 Ford coupe and need to do the rear seal. The original factory air is still there and extended through a cut out in the passenger side fenderwell. Because of that I am very limited in how much I can jack up the motor. Two pan bolts over the frame are hard to get to but not impossible. I have a lot of open space under there and at least an inch of clear space between the pan and frame.

    My questions:
    Will the pan come off with that much clearance? The pan measures about 1 1/2" deep over the frame and there must be some crank clearance inside.

    In the instructions he mentions removing the flywheel bolts. I have a Turbo 350 behind it and it seems I would have to remove the trans and converter to get to the flexplate bolts and have any movement rearward.

    Can anyone help with any additional info?

  18. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    The only reason to remove the flexplate bolts is because if the engine is out this is an easy way to make the rear main nice and easy to work on with clear visibility, especially if the engine is raised to about 4 feet off the ground and you can walk under it.

    If you try to leave the engine in and do the seal then just take off the oil pan, loosen the rear cap as well as pins and seals on the each side of the cap... Next is tapping out the rear main cap and with the flexplate on it is tricky to get the cap out.

    Just pull the engine and you will have an easy time of this job. You would be wasting your time trying to get at that main seal with the arrangement you have in that chassis.
  19. MGCslugger33

    MGCslugger33 Back in Buick

    Well after re-reading this thread at midnight (eastern time) I decided I was going to quit putting off, grow some, and give this rear main seal replacement a try on my 455. Thanks to this thread Everything smooth with out a hitch. I was so pumped up i never went to sleep. Thanks for the write up sean. Good stuff.
  20. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Glad to help!

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