I started tearing into my 67 Skylark to convert the rear drums to disc. I drained the fluids, pulled the axles, installed my Scarebird Disc brackets, New axle seals, installed the axles and when I wen to put the rotors on, the axles didn't fit inside the rotors. So, luckily for me, my neighbor is an aircraft mechanic at a local airport and has a lathe. Tomorrow morning, we're going to turn the axle flanges down to fit inside the rotors. Here's some pics of my progress thus far. -Josh
Hey Josh, I'm looking at the Scarebird site now, and I don't see a kit for the A-Body rear brakes. Are you using the 7.5" GM kit? Those look like front calipers - what are they from? Keep us updated! Thanks,
I have a 3.42 Posi from a 1981 Cutlass. The conversion required the Scarebird Brackets, 79-85 Eldorado rotors and calipers, and 79 Caprice Front hoses. Looking at the Screbird.com site, I don't see rear disc brackets for the 64-72 A-bodies. I swapped in the Cutlass rear because it's 4 inches narrower than the stock 67 rearend and it was a posi. -Josh
I thought I recognized those calipers. I am using a set on my rear disc brake conversion for my 67 Riviera, except I am going to use a set of front brake rotors from a 1999-2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee, which are 12" diameter and have the 5 x 5 bolt pattern. I will have to turn down the outside of my axle flanges as well to fit inside the Jeep rotors. Thanks for the info on the Caprice brake hoses. Later, Randy
Woohoo!!! It's finished!!! I finished the install of the disc brake stuff yesterday, filled the differential this morning and ran new brake lines, bled the whole brake system and took my first test drive. It's like stopping while going up a steep hill. -Josh
Total cost...... Scarebird Brackets....$115 Rotors.....$60 Calipers.....$112 (plus cores) Pads.....$25 Hoses.....$20 T/A Girdle....... $160 Prop. Valve.....$56 Corvette Master.....$110 Wheel seals and gear oil......$35 Probably another $20 or so on misc. bolts and whatever. The total comes to $713, but I had the Corvette master on my wife's car, so I swapped mine for hers (with permission) and a friend have me an old set of calipers for cores which saved me another $100. I didn't tally it up before because I was afraid to see what the damages were. Initially, I was just looking at the cost of the brackets, and it just went from there. -Josh
Doing a rear conversion myself but I cheated a little. I ordered a full 9inch setup with discs. But my question was do you have to replace the hard lines from the front to the back? I'm doing a frame off and going to order all new just wondering if i needed different lines front to back. Also witch Prop. Valve did you use? Any help is appreciated. Thanks John
I recently replaced the rear hard lines, but didn't change the size. I went with "Fatrodder" on Ebay for my Proportioning valve. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-S...62QQcategoryZ33565QQihZ002QQitemZ120360388691 I had to use an adapter to step the fitting down to the brake line to make it work. I don't remember which adapter I needed, but I got it at AutoZone, so it's not some specialized part. -Josh
That block is not a valve. Its only a block for disc/ disc applications that gives you a split system and a means of initiating a signal to let you know you have lost either the front or rear of your brake system. It has a switch that is activated when the brake pressure internally is unbalanced. On a disc/ disc system you are back to the same front to rear bias as a drum /drum system. Depending on your car and tire size and weight distribution you may want to add an adjustable valve only in the front to rear line. In most cases its not nessasary. If any one wants some help with their specific application and any line size questions ask or PM me. John, I sent you a PM.
