I was wondering where on the 455 motor would be the best place to read Oil Temp.? I have an aluminum rodded 470ci, race motor, I think welding a bung right into the pan would be best, reason being that's what's getting pumped into the motor, and has passed thru the motor. I also think this would be easy and cheaper than buying special fittings to read off of an oil line (I'm running an external pump). What do you think??? I can make a weld on bung, it's just an 1/8th inch pipe threaded piece of steel. Thanks Gary G.
Gary I haven't gotten around to installing an Oil Tempature gauge,But when I do I plan on going into the oilpan.I would think that would be sufficient. How'd your motor do on the Dyno?
Thanks Gary, I agree, the pan it is. The dyno, well that was a bad day. Actually not as bad as we thought after I pulled the motor apart......We ran the motor for 18 minutes, and noticed an oil pressure problem. Oil pressure wouldn't go over 30 psi, I have all the oil mods, and the external pump should push more pressure than that, when I primed the motor with my electric drill, 10w 30 oil, I had 50 psi, that's like 600rpm, should be great...The dyno operator, who will remain nameless, he totally "hosed" me financially on dyno time,was sure we wiped out the cam, drained some oil to see that the oil had a "glittery" apperance, I was not happy. On the dyno I pulled a valve cover and checked the lash of the solid cam to find it to be about .020 bigger than what I had set it to, more reason to believe that the cam had no lobes left on it. Pulled it off, hung my head in total disgust, as you know, building a new bigger bullet gets pretty expensive. and headed home. Curiosity was killing me, so I tore it apart, funny the cam still has lobes, the mains and rods show wear, what else, I sent the pump back to Peterson to check it out, checks good, so it just seems that my problem is that the clearances were to loose on the rods and mains, that was decided on by the place that did the short block, several conversations with them and it seems that the looseness was the problem. I was pretty disgusted, sure it looks like it'll cost me about $50 to put it back together, but I paid a pretty good chunk of change for the dyno, and had very high expectations, after that day I didn't care to even touch the motor. I'm coming around now, I have new rod bearings that will tighten them up to .0025 instead of the .0035 that they were, I'll be checking a couple other things out, but I'm motivated again and will start to put it back together. I'm pretty sure the dyno is out of the question for the 2nd time around. I heard that TA Mike is getting the Wagon back to race ready shape, to releive this frustration, I will finish my car and I would love to Grudge race him.
That first full pass will make it all worth while..... My motor was never dyno'd,Probably because I didn't want to spend the money......I know you can learn alot from a Dyno session,But I figure your ET slip is the bottom line. I've seen alot of "Bubbles burst" the first time to the track.....That is why I don't get too excited about Dyno #'s. I've seen countless people with big #'s on the dyno but somewhere between the flywheel and the rear wheels something is missing........ Good Luck and keep me posted when you get it out..... Any pictures?I have a real soft spot for the 64/65 cars.
I have monitored eng oil temp for several years since not running water in the engine , I use oil temp to monitor engine temp . I have a sender in the filter housing , the last thing the oil goes through before entering the motor . I wanted to know what temp the oil was being delivered to the bearings at (more critical on dry sump where oil cools in tank etc. ). What Peterson Pump are you using ? If it only makes 30 psi I would look for something more than bearing clearance causing the pressure drop . I had no problem making a regulated 75 psi with those kinds of clearances and a peterson pump? PS the line fitting for adding a sender should only be about $10-15 .
Adam I start burnout at 160* min . That gets me to launch at about 170-5* , data logger shows 190-5 * at end of run . That's on alcohol.
have you ever built too much engine heat with the alcohol? A friend told me they actually had trouble getting their engine warm enough.
If we run rounds shorter than 1/2 hr between during the dead of summer it will get hot . Mainly because it is filled top to bottom and we are required to run an engine diaper which keeps the heat in. Because the injection likes to be fat at idle for crisp response it is tough to warm up early and late in the year , I usualy warm the oil and or lean it out with the fuel shut off to warm it up .
RCI Drilled and tapped the two tabs on each side of the block and made up plates for the straps to attach to . Very servicable and fit was excellent over the steffs pan and pump .
Thanks Dave That's excactly what I wanted to know. I will feel safer w/ one on my car.Especially as the power levels increase.
