Fellow Buick Enthusiasts o No: :dou: uzzled: What is the trick when loosening Steel Tubing Lines with Brass Fitting and metallurgy has occurred to the point where the fitting is rusted and frozen on to the fitting, and when You attempt to loosen the fitting the Steel Tubing Line Twists and Crimps. I hate when that happens:rant: :af: I have been told Not to use Teflon Tape, pieces may break off and get into the lines. I was told to use a product called Liquid Teflon. I realize that this will help seal the fitting. But What Precaution can be taken to prevent the Fitting from corroding the steel line, so the fitting can be backed off without Twisting the Tubing? I trust Those Members with Experience and Knowledge will be able to provide a Solution to this annoying Problem. :beer :TU: :3gears:
Same thing happened to me when I was replacing a wheel cylinder on back my 91 s-10. "Snap," went the line, and I was off to the hardware store for another line. Good part was that the new line only cost $3. I never heard about teflon...maybe some white lithium grease in the fitting? We'll see what the real Buick experts have to say. -- Larry '70 Electra Convertible
twisting steel lines I have had some degree of success in this situation by using a flaring tool to hold the line and keep it from twisting. Use a good penetrating oil to break the seal between the fitting and the line and get the flaring tool as close as possible to the fitting while still leaving room to get a proper size flare wrench on the fitting. Once the fitting turns freely without binding or twisting the line you can remove the flaring tool from the line. It doesn't always work depending on the degree of corrosion, but it has helped in saving a few steel lines.:bglasses: :TU:
Good Tip Randy Thanks for that Great Tip. I previously mentioned Liquid Teflon. It seems when using a Small Tubing Cutter to cut the proper size Tubing need and the using the Flaring Tool to expand the metal on the end which the fitting will fit over, the finished product varies from one that has a Factory finished Flair. :TU: :beer
Re: Good Tip Randy If its a steel line you should be using a double flair tool to get the factory type flair that will seal correctly. I always make my own lines and have never used any sealer on the threads. I am assuming these are either fuel or brake lines your are asking about. If the flairs are correct they will not leak. electrolysis is always an issue with dissimilar metals. I use PB Blaster or Kroil for a few days before attempting to loosen and sometimes it works. Sometimes it doesn't.
This trick only works if you have a torch........... Crack the fitting loose from the wheel cylinder first. Then unscrew it from the backing plate. Then pull it out far enough to unscrew the wheel cyl. from the brakeline by rotating it. Once it is off the line, heat the nut with the torch until it becomes red hot. (not orange, you'll melt it). Then with a flare nut wrench, carefully work the nut back and forth until it spins freely. Be prepared for hot brake fluid to boil and spit out at you as you do this. I have done it this way for the past 20 years and it will work as long as the steel line is not too thin............in that case, you needed a new one anyway. :bglasses:
