Anybody ever use one of these. Seems like a great alternative to floor jacks and jack stands. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/rnr-5175188-a
18.5" of lift is a waste. For another 300-400 one could buy a mid rise lift that goes 60". For another grand you could even get a name brand mid rise.
Unfortunately I can not fit a higher jack version in my garage and I am tired of moving around jacks and stands..
I whole-heartedly concur and I too have height constraints Definitely interested to hear your thoughts Ken
I didn't bother to look at Summit Racing. I bought my current 1/2" drive torque wrench at Sears, as the last one grew legs. I was pretty annoyed that I was going to end up with something made in chinee, but it turned out to have been made in Indiana. I was quite pleased. Works great.+ [TABLE="width: 217"] <tbody>[TR] [TD="width: 42"]Sign up with[/TD] [TD="class: xl64, width: 24"]learning spanish[/TD] [TD="width: 23"]ccna for getting incredible online testking courses[/TD] [TD="class: xl64, width: 25"]spanishprograms - learn spanish in south america[/TD] [TD="width: 26"]and[/TD] [TD="width: 21"]Busuu [/TD] [TD="width: 29"]We also provide best[/TD] [TD="width: 27"]http://www.nocomprendo.es/[/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]
Time to hit the "Report Post" triangle :Smarty: This first post by a new board member is in fact an exact copy of this old post by SteeveeDee: Further reading :Comp:
I heard from the freight people, I should take delivery this coming Monday. /rubbing hands with glee.....
Ranger quick jack on an FBODY I received the Quickjack Monday, Residential delivery. Estes freight delivered it. It was delivered in a box truck with a lift gate but they wouldnt use the liftgate because I didnt pay the liftgate fee. Even had instruction on the bill of lading to that effect....Customer must remove....whatever. Thought that was kinda stupid but I cut the packaging open and hand carried two boxes off the pallet, then the big 150lb box on the pallet with the drivers help. Probably could have thrown the driver a 10 or 20 and had the liftgate, but whatever....moving on. There are known leaks you can read about online - basically the original design used the wrong ("flat") style of Oring seal. The lift I received came with a Technical Service Bulletin and new fittings and "round" oring seals to correct the issue. I have no leaks. Assembly was done within an hour. Two small issues: 1) The pump assembly didnt really line up right on the pump bracket/carrier. It fit and works fine, but sits crooked on the bracket because the handle on the top of the bracket interferes with part of the electric control box when the pump sits straight. It seems like they need to do another revision of the bracket/carrier design. Or maybe they already have and they are working through their old revision inventory....whatever. Like I said, it fits and works. But it would be an improvement if they did a revision to the carrier to correct this issue. Its more of a cosmetic issue than anything else. 2) The locking/safety levers need to be positioned outboard of the vehicle when the lifts are in place. In my case, one of the levers was installed on the wrong side of a lift, such that it would be inboard when in position. I simply removed the nut and bole, swapped the safety lever to the other side of theat lift, and installed the bolt and nut. Problem fixed. I put 2Qts DexMerc trans fluid in its tank. I bought the 115V powered version. The pic you may have seen of the mechanic holding the lifts one in each hand must have been the BL3500 because I can tell you the BL5000 lifts are heavy. Not unliftable, but it takes two hands to handle one. A nice feature is the rollers attached to one end of each lift so its relatively easy to roll the lifts around with one end on the floor. The BL5000 comes with 8 rubber blocks, 3" tall and 1.5" tall, qty 4 each. The quick disconnects seem a good quality, they connect and disconnect easily and dont leak a drop. They have the rotating lockable collars for when attached. SO I tried the lift on my 79 Trans Am and it works pretty well. First impression only, I havent done much but try to find the best setup for my car. Generally speaking I find that you need to choose your mounting location as far front as you can, because the "lever" action of the lifts predisposes the setup to be front heavy. To explain: At first I set the lifts up so that as the lift went up, the car would be levered towards the rear. This allowed me to get a rubber mount (3") pretty far forward, which I figured would be ideal because the engine is heavy. However, with the lift in full-up position, the vertical members of the lift are not completely vertical - they might be 15 degrees or so from vertical. This then offsets the BASE of the lift towards the rear of the car . this in turn left the car a little front heavy. I was able to easily make it rock by pushing up and down on the front end. Not rocking chair rock, nor tip over rock, but enough movement that I felt it was not stable enough. SO I lowered the lifts and turned them around, so they would lever the car towards the front when lifted. This sacrifices only a little in terms of forward rubber positioning, but it gains a lot in terms of the positioning of the BASE of the lifts. Now the BASE was forward of the TOP of the lift in full-up position, and the car was a LOT more stable. I did make one final adjustment that really solidified the stance of the lifted car. All along I had been using four 3" mounting rubbers. I decided to use 1.5" rubbers at the rear mount positions to transfer even more weight towards the rear of the car. This made the setup very stable. I can throw my weight at it and on it in any direction and it feels like its going to stay right where it is. The TA is an Fbody, stub frame car (sort of half frames attached to the underbody. This made the job more difficult that it could have been. I had to lift on the pinchwelds because the length of the Lift is a fixed size. to properly catch the stubframe I would need another few inches. Just by its design, the Fbody is long nosed and noseheavy. Even on jackstands. I think with a perimeter frame like an Abody, the mount locations will be easier to work with and the support will be better. When I have a chance to lift one I will add a review of that process. In the end, the lift functions as advertised. It is what it is. A compromise for those of us who dont have the headroom for a two post, and are sick of jacks and jackstands. It hangs the car up with all four wheels hanging, and at the same time allows unobstructed access to the underside of the car. The other low rise lifts I could find couldnt do both of those things.
I made a report about this post, but it was never removed. Here you can see how they work, after some time they edit the "original post" and add spam:
Was able to see the 5000 lb 115V version in action today at my friends home. Will it replace a HD 4 post unit, No. However, for oil changes, brake jobs, tire rotations and such it is fine and seemed HD enough, no vehicle movement when elevated and I was able to turn sideways while on the creeper under the vehicle. Keep in mind I am not the smallest person. LOL Seems the price is the same wherever I look including Summit.
