The Quick Performance 9" Rear is assembled and ready for paint and install Quick Performance 9" delivered Right on schedule. What's in your Skylark? It took me four hours from the time I rolled tools and parts out to cleaned up and ready for paint. That includes the 1 hour to rout out my GM backing plates to 3.150" to allow that huge Ford axle bearing to pass through. I can not belive how beefy this thing is! Rear End Specs: Custom built 9" housing & axle package for 68-72 GM A body car New steel fabricated housing (10 lbs lighter / 25-30% stronger) with 1/4" heavy walled axle tube Drain and fill plugs with jack pad Billet steel housing ends with oil seal surface (GM 10/12 style drums) All new Yukon aluminum through bolt center section with Yukon Grizzly 35 spline locker, 1350 series billet yoke, Aluminum Daytona pinion support & 3.70 ratio ring & pinion Here is a step by step of the assembly today: 1) l set the housing in a sturdy bucket with the center section opening facing up. 2) As I mentioned, to reuse my run GM drum brakes, the through hole in the middle of the backing plate needed to be enlarged to allow the big ford wheel bearing through the middle of it. The o.d. of the wheel bearing is 3.150" 3) Next is to pull the housing studs through is to place one at a time the center section studs through the holes in the housing from the inside out, then place a stack of a couple washers or other suitable spacer on the face of the housing. Using a 3/8" fine thread nut and socket/ratchet, turn the nut clockwise until the housing stud is fully seated. Repeat this for all 10 studs, using a new nut for each stud which will be re-used to complete the install later of the center section. Do not use of power tools. Grade 8 3/8" fine thread hardware is not intended for the high torque values that power tools can easily generate. 3) Once all the center section studs are fully seated, I applied a high quality RTV silicone gasket maker to seal the center section to the housing. A liberal bead on the mating surface with a loop around each stud is ideal. I applied a bit more at the bottom half just to assure a good seal. Next slide the center section over the housing studs and hand tighten the 10 3/8" nuts. I was prepared for a tight fit over the ten studs and new housing, new center section and new hardware; it was tight. A rubber mallet and dead blow hammer was my friend at this step. I also used a long 7/16" impact socket to slide over a couple of the studs and the applied some tapping on the center section to clear studs and seat it. Again, keep in mind these are 3/8" fine thread fasteners that only need to be tightened hand tight or about 30 ft/lbs. I set my torque wrench to 29lbs and evenly set all 10 nuts. After the silicone cures over night I will use a razor blade to clean trim off any that seaped out. Next was brakes & axles. The first thing to do is to drive the provided axle tube seals into each side of the housing. I used a seal driver, but anything will do like or a piece of wood, etc, that is about the same size as the seal. There is a machined surface with a shoulder in the housing ends for those seals. Once the seals are seated, a fingertip of grease will help keep the seal intact when installing the axle shafts. Next I slid 4 of the 3/8" T bolts through the holes in each housing flange. The flat part of the "T" will sit tight against the axle tube. A couple taps with a hammer might help seat the t bolts if necessary. Next my modified backing plates were hung on the 4 T bolts that are poking out of the housing flange. I carefully slid the long axle in the passenger side and short axle in the drivers side. The retainer plates go on last then, lock washers and nuts to secure the axles and brakes to the housing. Again, torqued to 30 ft/lbs for the 3/8" hardware. I installed the barbed brass fitting to use as a vent. After it is installed, a section of 3/8" rubber hose will be attached and secured up near the top of the fuel tank as if this vent ever gets clogged or blocked, heat and pressure will build up in the housing and oil will find a way out. At this point, I am ready for paint and install. I will add 2.5-3 quarts of 80w90 GL5 non synthetic gear oil. I am going to be mocking up the trans as I need to hack out some floor for the VGate Shifter. When I do that, I will measure the distance between the tail shaft and the rear end u-joint and verify if my driveline length needs to be modified, but from my preliminary measurements it appears it should be good. I need to swap out my 1330 u-joint with a conversion U-Joint. It does appear this rear measures about 3/8" narrower between the outside face of the axles than my 8.5. Here is the oil and begin the break in procedure MIke with QP suggest which I will follow. The first several times the new gears are ran are most important. We suggest to run the car up off the ground if possible. Let the car run in gear for about 10-15 minutes, or until the gear oil is up to operating temp. Usually, it will run about the same temp as your water. Once warm, shut the car off and let completely cool. We suggest to repeat that heat cycle 4 times before proceeding to drive the vehicle. After the first 4 initial heat cycles, you can drive the vehicle. We suggest to avoid any aggressive activities including burn outs, drag racing, heavy acceleration or long road trips for the first 1,000 miles if possible. The easier you are on the new gears, the better they will treat you in the long run.* I look forward to running this bad boy and:TU: Time for Cocktails:beers2:
Very cool,and reach out to Mike and let him know how you heard about it. The prices vary of coarse depending on your order but $2200- $2500+ is a good budget. Mike Mortensen Quick Performance Inc. Direct: 515-291-1968 | Fax: 515-232-2116 303 Sondrol Avenue | Ames, Iowa | 50010 | USA mike@quickperformance.com | www.quickperformance.com
Mine was $2243 after shipping and tax. My car being a leaf spring car has a simpler mounting configuration than an A-body though. Costs go up or down depending on housing material, pinion support material, carrier type (Eaton, True-trac, Locker, etc), and what type of axles you get, etc. Smoke'in deal over all and great to work with. After around 14,000-15,000 miles on mine, the pinon seal started to leak (likely due to rock/dirt damage from the 1 mile of dirt roads I drive near daily), and sent them an e-mail asking about what seal to use and if there were any special instructions re-torquing the pinion nut. Got a quick answer back that the common Napa 9" seal works and they use a solid pinion bushing so not to worry about crushing it and just don't over torque it enough to effect drag, which on a rear end is fairly difficult to do.
Somewhat Limited street joy driving and strip a few times per year. Car doesn't see many miles per year.
Ok. I like to use the Timken SET20 tapered axle bearings.They fit that same housing end,and are better suited for side loads,like street driving,cornering,etc.,but those big Ford bearings will work.
I'm just glad you can afford my dreams. One of these days my kids will be supporting themselves and I can splurge too. Still cant wait for the vids.
