1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Question on furd eec-IV diagnostic connector......

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by nailheadina67, Jul 27, 2004.

  1. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    I hope someone who is more knowlegable than I on these newer cars can answer this question for me:

    I bought one of those cheepie code readers a while back for reading the eec-IV trouble codes. It fit our '86 Merc, it fit my daughter's '96 Taurus, and it fit our '92 Tempo.

    Today I tried using it on a '94 Tempo that we just got and the plug won't fit!:af: (and the dreaded "check engine" light comes on intermittently)

    Did Furd use a different engine management system on that car? You would think if it fit the '92 and the '95 it would fit the '94. I hate newer cars.:rant:

    :bglasses:
     
  2. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    me too. Have been chasing a ghost in mine for a month.:af::rant:


    It is a '99 F-150 :rant::rant::rant:
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2004
  3. gstewart

    gstewart Well-Known Member

    did not the standards change on or about 1996 so that all manufactures would be using a standard eec diagnostic hookup ?
     
  4. RAMLARK

    RAMLARK Well-Known Member

    starting in '96 all domestics used OBDII, where is the connection
    on the tempo? is it on the driverside inner fender near the battery? if so it should be the old ford-1 or ford-1A . if your scanner worked on the older car, it should work on the '94.
    the most common problem i've seen on early 90's tempo/topaz
    is the DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor or the
    hose going to it from the exhaust pipe near the firewall.
    Michael, what is the ghost you're chasing on your '99 f150?if
    it's a lean condition on both cylinder banks, follow the vac line
    from your pcv to the back of the motor (is it 5.4?) there is a 90
    degree rubber hose connecting the hard lines that gets hot and
    melts.
    just a couple hints. it's hard to tell without actually seeing the
    car to diagnose, but these are a couple common problems i've
    encountered.
     
  5. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    Thanks, Paul.:TU: The connector is in the driver's inner fender, it almost fit my tester but the prongs were spaced apart too far to fit the plug on my tester. Otherwise it looked to me exactly like an eec-4 test plug.............go figure?

    Anyway, I replaced the spark plugs and rotor and the light has not come on since. (yet:laugh: ) The plugs were really bad, though.:bglasses:
     
  6. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    Paul,

    My scanner and the one at Autozone is saying that the IAC is stuck open (code 1518 ). So far I have replaced the IAC ($70.07), oxygen senser ($74.00), and ran several bottles of injector cleaner. Next maybe I will look at the mass airflow or MAP senser?

    The gas mileage has gotten better, but the "check engine light" is staying on.

    I can reset the computer and the light will stay out until I turn off the motor and restart it.

    If I unplug the IAC, with the motor running the valve closes so I know it is working (engine stumbles and almost dies).

    * This is with the air condition off and the truck in "park". *

    Question: If I get a computer from a donor truck and without having it reprogramed for my key (or do I). Will I need to change the lock assembly from a donor truck (take the lock assembley and key)? of is there something else that reads the key code?
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2004
  7. RAMLARK

    RAMLARK Well-Known Member

    Michael,
    i think you could just have a key made at the dealer to match
    the ECM if the computer is the problem. but i don't think that is
    the case. autozone said the problem is with the IAC being stuck
    open? i would look for vacuum leaks. the computer might think
    the IAC is open if there is a vac leak. does the engine idle higher
    than normal? i worked on a '99 Exploder this week that the DPFE
    sensor fried and burnt a hole in the plastic upper intake. causing
    a big vac leak. it took out the IAC also. i would look for the simplest things first
     
  8. Michael Evans

    Michael Evans a new project

    The engine only stumbled once when I was coming to a stop sign, but beside that everything is great.

    Will check for a vacuum leak tomorrow.
     

Share This Page