Quadrajets, found a few. Stickers

Pretty "fat" idle calibration. Do you have some sort of "Pro-Stock" camshaft in your big Buick engine?

I use the same carb with quite a bit less idle fuel and it easily feeds a 455 CID engine with a 289/308 @ .006", 236/245 @ .050" HR cam with .381" lobes and 1.65 rockers (.629") lift.

What size is the MAB in the airhorn?.......Cliff

 

Sorry for the delay i got lost for a bit. .072 is the size of the MAB in air horn. Although I had overzealously removed the bump and venturi. So it must have had a weaker idel signal.

 

Why are you grinding away at the Venturi areas?

I've set-up the smaller "750" cfm castings for Super Stock and FAST Class applications and some of them run into the 9's in the 1/4 mile over 135mph. To hack away at anything in the air path on a Q-jet for a street or street/strip application under about 750HP is a complete waste of time and may have less than positive results.

The key to getting a Q-jet to work in a "high performance" application is to get the idle system up to par for your CID/compression ratio/cam choice, then get the car to hook, then figure out how to keep the Q-jet full so you don't get a bloody nose when it bounces off the steering wheel at the top of first gear when you suck the bowl dry and the car noses over really hard!......Cliff

 

Haha. I think its because I found your book last. I found another main body of the same casting that I have not run yet. And I only removed the rib that connects the boosters to the wall. I learned from it and I will never remove a venturi again. It ran hard but without a dyno or quarter mile track who knows. I have no problems with getting it fuel. I learned a few things the hard way and had some interesting results and strange ones at times. But now Ive got one ready using your recipes, according to the very last one in your book, the eldlebrok carb. Except using the pontiac carb. Motor is still in limbo..

 

What do you think was the cause for no change when adjusting the mixture screws.

 

Not sure, but that carb should delivery PLENTY of idle fuel for what you are doing.

Does the engine speed up, smooth out and run better when you gently "tip-in" the choke flap or place our hand over the choke housing at idle to fatten it up some?...

 

That engine is no more. RIP. If I placed my hand over the housing it would suck my hand and stumble. I wasnt savy with the tip in method at that time. But my method was to give a slight squirt of carb cleaner at the primary side and it would stumble slightly. butterfly was always held open by the choke pull off .

 

My wife told me , how many carbs do you need for one car? Nice find Mark !

 

Same answer for many things including fishing poles.."Just one more"

 

What's the date code?

 

I know this is an older post but if any one is wanting to put the correct sticker on there carb I have them in stock!

Professionally reproduced by a customer of ours from Canada.

Find them here > https://www.stage1restoration.com/product-category/decals/page/3/

 

Guess these are fuel/heat resistant? When will you have the 350 stickers available? Thanks.

 

Todd,
you have the correct info (dot colors) for 68 and 69 carbs?

 

As soon as I can get the correct Color Specs for the 350 carbs I'll add that info to my website.

Same with 1968/69. If someone has the correct color specs I can accommodate those years as well.

I'll check with the manufacture on the heat and fuel question. . . . .

 

Has anyone seen these "dots" on 68/69 carbs? I have documentation that says "mark on bowl" unlike the 1970 version that says "dot on bowl".

 

I know this is an old thread, but it doesn't hurt to ask. I'm in need of a 1967 Rochester carburetor for a manual. 7027148. I have one of the 90 1967 gs400 convertibles manual 3-speed cars. My carb can't be saved. Parts missing. Body is broke, base warped, holes are stripped and the side tag is missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Gary - you should start a new post in parts wanted.