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  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
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Q-jet bushing kit

Discussion in 'The Venerable Q-Jet' started by xxlv8, May 8, 2004.

  1. xxlv8

    xxlv8 Well-Known Member

    I just rebuilt my Q-jet and noted that the shafts were very sloppy... Where can I get a bushing kit/ reamer to rebush it? I also note that, while the rebuild took care of the bog/ carb sneeze on acceleration I still have a midrange/ WOT miss... is this likely due to the vac leak at the shafts or something else?
     
  2. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    Worn shaft bushings would show up as a lean condition at idle and lower speeds. If you have a misfire under load at midrange and higher RPM's I would look at the ignition. Carbon tracking on the cap or coil tower, worn distributor shaft bushings, or maybe try a new set of spark plugs. :bglasses:
     
  3. xxlv8

    xxlv8 Well-Known Member

    Hi Joe,

    I should have mentioned that I just did the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and points. Plug gap, timing and dwell all factory spec. The distributor is questionable as there is lots of slop in the gear, it's getting swapped soon. I drove the car today and noted that the motor seems to load up with fuel till it sneezes through the carb then runs almost ok for awhile. If I hammer it I get a big bog and although it will haul a$$ acceleration is not at all crisp and it stutters with anything more than 1/4 throttle. Choke opens all the way and stays there, the secondary air valves never seem to open as I work the throttle manually w/ air cleaner open. Any other hints? Seems really rich to me, float height is dead on, metering rods and jets are all stock.
     
  4. Smartin

    Smartin Guest

    What is the dwell se at on your points?
     
  5. xxlv8

    xxlv8 Well-Known Member

    30 deg. Factory spec. per the manual. I also found out today how loud a 455 is without pipes on it! My exhaust pipes have slowly been giving up so I removed them today as patterns for the bender... beautiful noise! :)
     
  6. nailheadina67

    nailheadina67 Official Nailheader

    Check your choke pull off diaphragms.........your carb may have either 1 or 2 of them, but one of them limits the speed at which the secondaries open. If it has a leak they will fall open too fast and cause a major bog. If you have a vacuum pump tester pump it down and it should hold vacuum. :bglasses:
     
  7. xxlv8

    xxlv8 Well-Known Member

    Cool, I'll do that... There are two of them. Autozone has an inexpensive vacuum pump I've been wanting anyway. :)
     
  8. RAbarrett

    RAbarrett Well-Known Member

    Food for thought... vacuum leaks can only occur at throttle settings causing relatively high manifold vacuums. Heavy throttle conditions lower vacuum. Does this condition only occur when using the secondaries? You may be experiencing a problem where the air horn gasket is not properly installed and it is binding the power piston, which controls the metering rods. This can cause a lean condition, creating your problem. Try this... using a very long narrow screwdriver or similar tool, try locating the power piston under the vent stack. Using a flashlight makes the job easier. You are looking for a shiny brass colored line running fore and aft on the vehicle. This is the link holding the metering rods. Gently push down; do they quickly return? Do they push down? If they are not free to move, lean out or excessive richness will occur. Let me know... Ray
     

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