pulling the motor

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by 462 GILLEY, Aug 1, 2003.

  1. 462 GILLEY

    462 GILLEY Well-Known Member

    I have never tried it, but was wondering if I can pull the motor and leave the headers on the motor?
    And if I can, will it go back in with the headers installed?
    This is on a 1972 Skylark with a 455, and TA 2in. prim. tube headers?
    No AC.
    Sounds like a spun bearing at Norwalk yesterday, so the motor has to come out again:( .
    Thanks again to all that helped me at the track.
    Mike Gilbert
     
  2. 9secStage1

    9secStage1 Worlds Fastest GS Stage 1

    Sorry to here about it. I do feel your pain, as I broke my engine at Norwalk back during Buick Day. Do yourself a favor first buy a bottle of asprin. I believe the headers do have to be disconnected first prior to pulling. Unless you have the nose off the car. Mine, I have Hookers w/2" primaries, we had to disconnect them. Getting the engine back when it is almost installed we set up those center bolts on the headers first (this is where the asprin is needed). It's a bear, but what can I say...we love our Buicks...Labor of Love.

    Best of luck. I hope I'm wrong with the removal of headers first.

    Rick Martinez
     

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  3. KELLY SONNABEND

    KELLY SONNABEND Well-Known Member

    SORRY, TRIED IT
     
  4. SKYLARK455

    SKYLARK455 Well-Known Member

    Hey Mike,

    Im sure your done already but I tried it, and Unfortunatly it did not work.

    If you need any help let me know. Ill be glad to give you a hand anytime.

    Jason Bartosch
     
  5. Gold72GS

    Gold72GS Wheelman

    You can't get it out with the headers still on the motor, but you can leave the headers bolted to the exhaust and pull/ reinstall the motor. I have done this 3 times and all I had to do is wire back the headers to keep them out of the way.They won't move much but a little is all it took.I am running the Poston chrome headers and I have working A/C. Brian
     
  6. rh455

    rh455 Well-Known Member

    Man, it must be Norwalk luck! We spun a bearing there Saturday. 1100 miles to spin a bearing, could of done that at home.:Dou:
     
  7. :confused: Guys, kind of new at the whole building thing but just so I know before I start - how does one "spin" a bearing - is it peculiar to track racing or is it related to something with the engine rebuild?

    E 67 / 69 Rivs
     
  8. Brian Albrecht

    Brian Albrecht Classic Reflections

    "Spinning a bearing"

    Hi Erik,
    This could be a long story but I will try to make it short. The big block Buick's "weak" point is an exceptionally large diameter crankshaft journal. Why is it weak if it is large in physical size? Because it becomes very difficult to lubricate properly. When you operate a BBB at RPM's in excess of 5000 RPM, it takes substantial oil pressure to insure all the bearing surfaces are lubricated properly. Since the oil pump is located in the front of your engine, the number 7 and number 8 connecting rods are frequently the first to go. The term "spun bearing" is used when to much friction at the crank journal to the connecting rod or main cap is encountered. Small tabs that normally position the replacable bearing surface in place give way and the bearing spins inside the connecting rod or main cap. The operator will then likely experience a knocking noise, a drop in oil pressure, followed by a much lighter wallet. Now the crankshaft will have to be cut down to provide a new surface at the machine shop and specially sized bearings to match will have to be purchased. Besides excessive RPM, bad machine shop tolerences, incorrect assembly, low oil pressure, contaminated or poor oil, low oil quantity, and high operating tempertures can also create the friction necessary to spin a bearing. Others could probably elaborate greatly on this subject but that is a fairly simple explaination.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2003

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