Pulling the carb off tomorrow...Advice???

So im going to be pulling off my carb tomorrow, from my 350 4b calfi. It needs a serious cleaning, but also has a few problems.

First, It doesn't drop down the idle once warm. Its a 5-10 part if im not mistaking? Its a mani attached kind.

Second the secondary barrels never open.


Any advice on getting it off and how to fix these problems. I frankly can't afford to have it fixed by a pro, and enjoy doing all my own work and learning from it.

Thanks

 

Do a search on qjet rebuild. There are a couple of books talked about on this site. Some good. some not so good

 

Adam said it, it sounds like your choke linkage is hanging up somewhere. The linkage should move very freely. My 77 pickup i just got had a similar problem. Hit the pivot points, and linkage ends with some penetrating oil and freed it all up and it worked great w/o further adjustment.
You will have a thermostatic coil for the choke linkage as well that may add a little resistance to the feel. or it went bad.

 

I tried moving the chocke and its all seized up. Not sure if in its normal function its suppose to be so stiff. Is the "Fuel/Air : Carburetor Choke Pull Off" From rock auto what im in need of?

So does the choke linkage control just the secondaries, or also the idle once the car is warm?

 

You should buy a book, Cliff's book on Qjets is good.

Get you some Berryman's B12 Aerosal at the parts store. And spray down the choke area and try to free it up. You may not have to pull the carb off.

 

Well i think i know the difference now. The air valves are the top correct? The blades on the bottom move just fine, the air valves for he secondaris dont open. Nothing is seized anymore. just stuck a little from gunk buldup, and i dint want to force it to move before.

I took the carb completely and cleaned it up nicely. Reconnected everything but a few minor things, so havent tried it yet.

But what i dont understand is how the linkages connected to the secondary air valves push them open. I have some picturs but wont be able to post them till tomorrow.

 

If you are talking about the secondary air valves ,,, atmospheric pressure pushes them open... As the volume of air increases going into the secondaries they gradually swing open....this is why it is important to have the spring wound tight enough to prevent secondary ''bog''.....

 

I dont want to highjack the tread but wanted to ask if i step on the gas at idle should sec air valves open or they shouldnt?I think i have read somewhere that they will work only when engine is uner load,correct me if i am wrong.Maybe that little hesitation when i am goin from 60mph is connected with secondaries opening to easy?o No:

 

That makes sense, but like the other post, i thought they would open when i would rev it up in my drive way, but they never move.

I had th same hesitation, when i bought my car i was struggling to pass 65. then with some timing adjustments i easily hit 110. I then added a vac adjustable timing advance, which helped the part throtle, and lighter rotor springs which greatly helped the wot.

 

In my carb there is no vacum break for secondary flaps.It's only that tension spring which holds 'em closed.

Now when i know that airflaps cant open when revving in my driveway i know what to do.They do open rly wideou: .

Thanks Larry:beers2:

 

Guys,

I strongly suggest converting the carb to an electric choke. I eliminates the sticking stuff, eliminates the typically missing stuff like the air cleaner heater, and offers the new stuff that works the best. BTW. Anytime the choke does not open all the way, expect secondary air valve issues. It is usually a sticking linkage, or a defective coil. As was correctly pointed out, they are no longer offered new. The best you can find will likely be used up. Ray

 

Where are you in Boston? Why not come by Jimmy Shiels party on Saturday. You would get more help than you might really want. I also might be able to stop by sometime and just point out what everything is an what problems I see. Most stuff is easy to figure out once you know a car. The carb probably needs a complete rebuild repalcing all vacuums, rebush. etc. It is amazing how many guys before you probably had their hands on that carb and most likely screwed it up more tha it was..

 

Well i don't know Jimmy, so im not the type to just show up. Plus I need to fix the breaks first.

Now that i've gone over everything, im very confident the carb is working properly other than the idle when starting up and not dropping down. My biggest thing, was that i didn't know the air valves opened due to vaccum. Since that isn't actually a problem, i don't thing there are any other problems.

I just need to have all the vac outlets on the carb properly connected and or plugged. I used another thread a few weeks back and matched that, but want to be sure. Will post my connects later so ppl can check it.

 

Id fel out of place at a buick party w/o a buick! But im hoping to fix the brakes tomorrow so i should be good to go.

Looking forward to seeing a nice gs/gsx. WOuld be niceto see a gsx so i can take some pictues of the striping since i want to mimic the look.

 

Marcello, I will not be showing up in a Buci either as mine is in a million pieces. Won't stop me.