My proportioning valve is a Bendix model # 0411, it seems to be cast iron, not brass. What is the proper color for the unit and bracket (I assume the unit will remain cast iron). Len
The integral prop valves used on '71 & 72 disc brake A-bodys are natural cast iron. There are several ways to provide a restored finish on one, to keep it looking natural, but the best involve capping off the 5 ports & painting. Personally, my own method involves capping all the ports, taping off the rubber boot, blasting, then metal conditioning, then hanging the valve on the small parts tree & shooting a thin coat of urethane clear followed by a light misting of my favorite cast iron gray. Laying the urethane clear down first helps prevent rust through that one will get just by shooting typical cast iron paints. On the small stamped steel bracket, have been sending those out for black phosphate. Some like to paint this bracket when frame is painted, but I noticed on my very best parts car (a 30 year garaged 6,000 mile '72 Lux Lemans) that the integral prop valve bracket was def a lighter shade of black than surrounding frame & did not appear painted. The same bracket on my '71 Judge was not suitable for comparison, & so were several other '71 & '72 stamped brackets I've pulled while yarding. Personally like the slight contrast this gives the bracket. BTW, on high point resto work, I only use DOT 5 Silicone brake fluid. All it takes is the finish on one correctly restored zinc dichromate plated booster to be screwed up by a leaking Master Cyl with DOT 3, & one will buy the DOT5. Similiar scenario can happen at the prop valve. Just my .02, :3gears: Roger
Bracket question I am gathering the parts for converting my 70 drum brakes to disc and I also have the proportioning valve but I do not have a bracket with it. can you post a picture of the mounting bracket so I know what it is I will be looking for? Thanks Joe
Zinc Dichromate is the correct finish for a booster, Cadmium and yellow, done correctly, is very close, the difference in appearance is almost impossible to determine.. and note I said "correctly done cad and yellow". There are a lot of variations that can happen in that process. the 71-2 combination valve bracket is black oxide. As are the bolts that hold the valve to the bracket, and the bracket to the frame. Dot 5 fluid is fine, just flush it once a year, maybe twice depending on how much you drive it. It won't absorb mosture, and can cause localized corrosion in one area, where the water "puddles". And if the car is driven, you will induce water into the system from condensation. Dot 3. 4, and 5.1 fluids absorb and suspend the water, they should be changed every year or two, depending on your usage of the vehicle. Most high end brake suppliers recommend Dot 4 or 5.1 for high performance braking systems, as Dot 5 is somewhat compressable, which may or may not be noticeable in the pedal feel. JW
If you aren't going to have your valve rebuilt I would suggest a new one. Yes, they look totally incorrect but have you ever looked inside a 30 year old valve? Not very nice, and could be dangerous to boot. Rebuilding is quite pricey, not that hard but try to find the parts!! I wish someone would off a kit so we could save our originals.... later Tim
