Primium Finish 70 GS Power Brake Booster Source Needed

Brake boosters are common. They come with and without the Delco logo. Has anyone determined that there is a source that has a better finish or plating than generic? Booster Dewey perhaps?

 

I had mine plated by Steve Gregory at brake boasters.com I think mine came out outstanding. I hate the Chinese reproductions. You can spot them a mile away. All the original disc brake units I have seen had the Delco Moraine stamp in one place or the other.

 

Booster Dewey....Period! USA
503-238-8882
Tell him Buick Booster Eric sent you! :3gears:

 

My plating is better Jim. That gregori guy reassembled one for me and plating came back looking worse



DL

 

Wish I woulda known about Eric. Bought mine from Inline Tube. Not real popular w/ Buick a Foruma Forum

 

Had a conversation with Steve Gregori regarding the Delco Moraine stamp on the power booster. According to him, '69 is the year that this stamping first appeared. Purchased a booster from him 10 plus years ago for my GTO. Nice. Archie

 

I spoke with Booster DEWEY and they do not have the correct 70 power booster shell in stock. So I am looking for the correct core power brake booster shell without pits. I will post in parts wanted.

 

I think I have one jim.i'll look in the morning.

 

Jim,

Here's the poop..

That gold color is one of three different processes.

1. The original and most durable is Cyanide Cadmium. Because of the EPA and how toxic Cad is, this process is almost extinct.

This Chevelle guy claims to still do it. http://www.supersportsales.net/

2. Alkaline Cadmium- this commerical process is what all the repop boosters, like the one that is on your car now, is done in. Very close to the original, but not as durable. They are doing it in limited quanities in the US, but it is still fairly common overseas.

3. Zinc/yellow Dichromate- This is the process that virtually all the USA based resto outfits are using (Brake boosters.com, boosterdewey ect, ect) It's the least toxic and most EPA friendly.

It's my opinion that if you have one done in zinc/yellow dichromate, you must clear coat it, or it will discolor and rust in a very short time, in your tropical NC heat/humidity. Much faster than the one that is on the car.. this would be my last choice for this process, it is the least durable.


Good luck

JW

 

Thanks for the additional information. There is also the issue of the thickness or depth of the coating applied versus the factory depth.

All the considerations give rise to some tough choices that I have not seen discussed here before.

 

If your dichromate rust I'd be finding a new plater . It's more durable then clear / silver zinc and should hold up fine another 40 years

DL

 

Here is the ID/date code information for a 70 Buick booster.

http://www.v8buick.com/archive/index.php/t-105979.html

 

Gregori is California based. He found me a pit free original. I was pleased with his work.

 

Jim,

I have three boosters that are Cyanide Cadmium plated and one that is Zinc/yellow Dichromate plated, pictures attached Pictures of them side by side.. Both are GM original boosters.

As far as the Delco stamp being upside down it was not plant specific and was hit or miss… I have 1935 booster of each.

I know the 70 chevelle booster is a 9391. I am not sure about the 70 Buick
The 1971-72 chevelle booster is a 1935 and the 72 Buick is a 1929.
I am not sure if the 70 Buick is 9391 but someone on the forum should have an original 70 Buick to check. The front number will be the date and the rear number on the tab will be the ID number.
Jim has the plating info down pat.

I hope this helps

Nelson

 

Lot of variables here DL, thickness of the zinc as well as ambient conditions that the vehicle is exposed to. The Desert SW is much easier on nearly everything (except may vinyl/rubber) than the Midwest or Southeastern US.

It would not be a big leap to assume that the repop stuff has the minimum requirements for the plating to achieve the desired look.

In this case, if your going thru the trouble of replating an existing/original unit, I would want the original type of plating to duplicate the exact look and durability, if I could find it.

That said, I have put probably 2 dozen of those re-pop boosters on in the last 10 or so years, after they became available.. and this is the first I have heard of one deteriorating.

I used to take them apart and have them Cyanide Cad plated, there was a plating shop about 2 miles from the original TSP shop that did that process, and very nicely.. Had I known they were going to be shut down by the EPA in a few years, I would have done a hundred of them.

I still know of the original booster I did with them, still looks as good as the day it was done, that was 16 years ago, most of that time spent I Miami, now it is back here in MN.

JW

 

Not sure what Gregori uses but it looks pretty original to me. Factory stuff was not the best remember. They were pressed out by the millions.

 

This fan Clutch is very old stock NOS and plating would be what you guys are talking about.

 

This one is much older

 

Dave,
he uses Zinc/yellow Dichromate, the one in the left picture (facing front) is one he did for me. He stands behind his work. Mine had a internal vacuum leak and he took care of it no problem.

Nelson

 

Nelson, just a bit more shiny I guess. There is always Mexico if we want the right stuff if they still do it?