Hello Buick Brotheren !!! Well I was able to get the front brakelines bled and airfree. But I'm at the end of my rope as for the rears. :af: At the first rear bleeder all I get is bubbles and bubbles. I then go to refill the master cyl. ( of which I didn't let it empty completely ) and use my press bleeder and it pulls more bubbles and bubbles in to the fluid catch. I get no solid stream of brake fluid coming out of the bleeder. Wtf ??? :rant: :rant: Must of went back and forth between the master cyl. and the bleeder ten times with the same result. My question is.... where most likely would I be pulling air in the rear brake system? And assuming air is getting in to the system somewhere, wouldn't there be a leak somewhere? I've looked and found no leaks anywhere. Has anyone out there gone through this aggrevation and found a solution? Could really use some help !!! Thank you. John. :ball: :ball: :ball:
The sequence when bleeding the system is to start from the farthest bleeder from the master cylinder(right rear) and work your way to the closer one(left front).There's a chance that the master cylinder is defective,I replaced two on one day from Advance Auto parts,after the second I asked for a refund and got one from NAPA and all was well.Good luck.
ummmm...... hate to disagree with ya hector :laugh: closest wheel first.i said the other day i thought so but its been a few years...so i looked in the ol buick manual.lf-rf-lr-rr.im going to be doing it pretty soon myself p what pises me off,is there is NO mention of how to bench bleed the master! thank goodness for the old v8buick memory banks :TU:
Thanks guys. The master cyl. is brand new from yearone. I assume they would sell a quality piece as they have a reputation to uphold. In ref. to the Buick Maint. manual it says to start from the closest wheel to the master cyl. Still scratching my head as to my problem. o No: John.
??? TTT! I'm sure if thirty one people have read this someone might have some helpful advice. o No: John.
Hmm,that's odd,I was trained years ago to bleed brakes farthest to closest on a very large and diverse fleet of vehicles,did that kind of work for a few years and all my vehicles as well.Maybe the trick is to bleed either the front ones together and the rears also???I'm baffled,I know that the method that I described obviously worked for me for I haven't eaten any bark for lack of braking :grin:.I'm going to check on this,thanks for pointing it out :bglasses: .
Does your car have disc brakes up front? I read somewhere here that there is a button on your prop valve that you need to press while bleeding the brakes. (if it has disc front) o No: If not..... I would be looking closer at the master cylinder. Was it bench bled enough?
I have a self-bleeder and the manual says farthest from master first. I was also taught this. Hmmmmmm..... Did you bench bleed the cylinder well? Are you bleeding them by having someone pump up the pedal or with a vacuum bleeder? Having someone pump up the pedal is akin to bench bleeding, and it'll take a couple of fills of the cylinder to accomplish it.
:Smarty: Hmmmnn ... I was taught to bleed the farthest wheel first and the next furthest , etc . :laugh: p
maybe? john,i wonder if the new m/s has a different piston stroke?not allowing the piston to pass fluid to the rear?i read 7 pages of posts & that was brought up a couple of times as a problem for what you are describing.just cause its a year one part dont mean nothin.
Thanks fellas, the instructions in the Buick Manual and also the Pressure bleeder tool I bought says to start with the wheel closest to the master cyl. Hmmmm? I wondered the same thing also about starting from the wheel furthest. However the front brakes or disks are done. No problems up there. Yes I did bench bleed the master cyl. with the instructions provided. No problems. Was easy. I'm not using another person for this. I'm using a vacuum pump tool for this. The problem is it just keeps pulling bubbles with fluid from the wheel cyl bleeder valve. Had to refill the master cyl. about 10 times to make sure it didn' t go completely empty. Hmmmm??? Still thinking what could be wrong though. Thanks for the replies though. It's really appreciated. Sucks when it's summer and you can't take out your ride. John.
I have had more luck with gravity bleed than using a power device (mighty vac.) Just to clarify all you changed was the master cylinder?
Doug, I changed the master cyl. & the brake booster. I also made sure to use the same length rod between the master cyl. and the booster. Tried to gravity bleed and had no luck with the rears also. ou: John.
I had nothing but bubbles when I just vac-bled my car - but it was the fronts that gave me the bubbles. I had a buddy pump the pedal up and it is fine now. Get a helper to pump the brakes. And I've never had luck with gravity bleeding either.
are you using the factory nipples/bleeders when drawing a vacuum? i've had problems doing this and sucking air thru the threads of the bleeder. remove the bleeder and stick a plastic fitting into the threaded hole. -nate
The only way to know then is to run a pressure test starting at the master cylinder. I think I have the tool and would be willing to let you borrow it. Let me know if you can't find one locally.
Well I bit the bullet and had a friend come over from down the street. We both tried the buddy method and this time it worked. :beer The pedal is rock hard. It seemed that it took a combination of the vacuum pump and another person to get things right. Anyway I just wanted to say I appreciate the help and suggestions from everyone. Especially Doug. Your offer was much generous !!! Yardley your post motivated me to get my buddy to help. That is a second time. Of which worked. :beer Thanks again fellas. You're generosity and help is what makes this site great. John Biggs. :TU:
I checked some books trying to find some more information on this topic.I looked at some factory chassis manuals and they all prescribed the furthest to closest sequence:'76,'78 and '79 Buick manuals,'79,'77 Corvette,'66 Nova.I also checked a couple of Chilton auto repair manuals,the hard covered ones:'72-'79 did not listed a sequence however the '84 listed the sequence farthest to closest except on Chrysler Corp. front wheel drive vehicles(rr-lf-lr-rf),Ford Motor Co.,Escort,EXP,LN7,Linx,Tempo and Topaz.For GM '80-'83 Citation,Omega,Phoenix and Skylark,'82-'83 Cavalier,Celebrity,Century,Cimarron,Cutlass Ciera,Firenza,Skyhawk and 2000&6000 all have the sequence rr-lf-lr-rf. I did read a little about bleeding brakes with the pressure system and it stated that on vehicles equipped with front disc brakes and master cyl. without proportioners or pressure control valves located in the master cyl. outlet port,the brake metering valve or combination valve must be held in position using a special tool,the GM tool part # is J-23770.It goes on to say that failure to do that will not aloud to bleed the rear brakes.These came from the same '84 Chilton manual but I read a similar warning on the '76 Buick service manual. I'll say that this is the first time that I've ever heard of a sequence other that the one I posted but if my car's factory service manual said to do it an alternate way that's the way that I would do it(after making sure that it wasn't a typo :grin: ). Seriously,this is more than a wrenching issue it's also a safety issue,a lot of people read these posts and if anyone is in doubt plase refer to the factory procedures to be safe.
something else to consider is the way that the service shop, the factory line, and us in the garage do the bleeding. they all may do it difffrently. the factory may pressurize from the MC and then to let the air out it makes sence to do the shorter runs first. or if thats the station that they are on. (guy clamps on tool for bleeding to MC) starts at front left wheel walks across the line to the front right wheel, then goes to back right wheel then back left, then back to remove the bleeder. the dealer may have a power vacuum tool where it makes sence to draw from the longest run first. then progressively shorter. there are a lot of what if's espically when reading looking for the info and having diffrent data pertaining to the same thing. -nate
