Looking to do a disc conversation both front and rear on my 72 Skylark. I like the look of a clean and empty engine bay and would rather not go with a power booster. The car has non power drums all the way around now so Im used to the non power brakes. Am I going to regret not going with a power set up? Is the peddle harder with discs versus drums? I drive this car vary little now and its usually just to the local cruise nights and a few trips a year to the strip. Thanks for the help!
Thats kind of what I have been hearing. The theory of your daily driver with power brakes. Turn your car off and try to push the brakes in and stop the car. It dosent work. But I feel like I have seen people run it this way before?
Non-power disc brakes work just fine as long as you get the correct bore size master cylinder. There are lots of folks on the pro-touring board that have done it with great results. Comparing pedal effort of power brakes with out engine vacuum to a non-power setup is not completely accurate. Bore size and pedal ratio are different for each system so obviously a power system is going to be completely different than a non-power system. For a non-power set up you want a master with a 7/8" to 1" bore size but the piston size in the caliper plays a role as well. Josh
I would hope so but you now what happens when you just assume something is right. Personally I would contact whoever you are purchasing the kit from and ask these questions. And honestly, anything is an improvement over non-power drums. My 65 had non-power drums and you really have to drive defensively...and if they get wet you might as well open the door and dig you heal into the ground. Josh
Drove a 1945 Dodge WC-51 (Military version of the power wagon, 5630lbs) with manual drums :shock: its a good thing you can only get up to 45 in those!
As stated you want a master with a bore of 1 inch or less if you can find one. Also you want to make sure its a disc front disc rear master. a drum master has residual valves in themand you dont want them with disc brakes. so youll want a small bore master ( 1 inch ) and for a disc/disc application.
I have manual drum also and have a disk connversion kit. i am going to keep the manual also. i talked to the guys at inlinetube.. they said i need a master cylinder . proportioning valve and the line kit from the master cylinder to make them work correctly. i would give them a call. hope this helps.
let me know how the install goes. the guy I was ordering my kit from only has the kits available in a 2in drop as of right now. Not sure I want to lower the car. The reasoning for the whole disc brake upgrade is because I plan on swapping out the 350 for a 455.
My manual drums will stop on a dime. I once even drove through a 1 foot deep long puddle on the side of the road as fast as I possible could, the drums still stopped well.
If I dropped my car 2", I would DEFINITELY have problems with my MT headers. My car sits well, but I still have to be careful around speed bumps and steep drive ways.
Thats kind of what I was thinking. Even with my small block and headers they hit every once and awhile
Oh yeah, those headers are DEFINITELY gonna be hitting a LOT more with a 2 inch drop kit, especially if you knoe they are already hitting at standard height.
