Stupid stupid me, I really screwed up this time. I was installing a Petronix ignition in my 71 455 and it called for the removel of the distributor. Well, long story short, I can no longer get the @&*#% thing to fire. The closest I got was a sneeze through the carb. I know it's firing because of the popping from the carb. Even had a small fire so it's firing on an open intake valve. I'm positive I did NOT move the crank while it was out and from what I can see, it only fits two ways due to the slot at the bottom of the shaft. :error: How does one go about getting the distributor back in sync with the timing? Is it possible to put the gear on out of sync, like 180 degrees? Must be some secret here.. o No: If I get the line on the balancer pointing to the zero degree mark, shouldn't the rotor be pointing at the #1 plug? Mine seems a bit off. How does one adjust this position? It could be the Petronix I guess, but they've always worked great for me in the past, and it is firing, literally. Maybe this is a good time to upgrade the entire ignition system with HEI, but I'll still be out of sync, right? Any help would be so much appreciated. Thanks, Keith
Keith, You could be a tooth off or 180 degrees off. There are two crankshaft revolutions where it will point at 0 on the balancer. One is where you want to be, when both valves are closed and the cylinder is firing. The other is when the exhaust valve is open and it's all the way up, pushing the exhaust out of the cylinder. You want to be sure that you're at TDC, when both valves are closed. You can pull the driver's valve cover, put it on zero, and if both intake and exhaust rockers are parallel, you should be at TDC. If one is up and one is down, then you're on the exhaust stroke. You could also pull the plug and crank it over, waiting for the air pressure to blow your finger out of the hole. It's pretty much up to you. After you get it set at TDC, find where #1 is on your cap (assuming all the plug wires were left attached). You want to rotor to point at that position once it seats. Here's the key, the oil pump driveshaft is slotted and may have moved when the gears were disengaging. So if you drop it down so it mates, then you may be a tooth off. I marked on my rotor with a black pen, where the male piece in the base of the distributor was. One person held a pencil across the base of the distributor, lining it up with the male piece that drives the oil pump. I used the pen and marked each side of the rotor so I then knew where the slot in the oil pump drive shaft needed to be once seated. I then used a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump drive shaft in the direction necessary so that the distributor would point to number one when seated. When I dropped the distributor in, I turned the rotor a little bit counter clockwise since it will turn as it seats in the timing cover, against the cam gears. Is that clear as dirt?
Yeah...what he said. Although I substitute a cork instead of a finger. Cant seem to reach the key and the spark plug hole at the same time! When the cork blows out of the hole at mach 2.3 your at TDC. Jason
Actually there were two of us, and we went the valve cover removal option. I put the spark plug hole option too because I knew it would come up anyhow. Our motor had just been assembled and the valve covers weren't tightened all the way anyhow.
What I missed was I didn't know the slot in the hole could move without turning the crank. I did try the 180 thing and ended up with a backfire that I'm sure sent the neighbors running for their lives. So, if the balancer points to zero and the #1 cyl is at TDC with both valves closed, then the rotor should be pointing directly at the #1 plug wire. I think I'm real close, maybe a tooth or two off. I hate to pull the valve cover as I'd need new gaskets then as these are not new. maybe I should pull them and paint them while their off. I just picked this car up a last weekend, so lots of little things could be freshened up. Thanks all, this is exactly what I needed. Keith
Keith, The easiest thing to do, is pull the #1 sparkplug. Get a helper, and cover the plug hole with your finger. Have your helper just tap the starter over in short bursts. When you feel air pressure on your finger, take a look at the balancer mark, it should be coming around. Turn the crank clockwise until the balancer mark lines up with 0 on the timing tab. Then position your rotor to fire #1.(make sure your vacuum advance points to the passenger side corner of the car) Note the position of the oil pump drive key, with the rotor at #1 firing. Then take a screwdriver, and position the oil pump driveshaft slot. The distributor gear is helical. As you push the distributor home, the rotor will turn. You will have to start at a position, clockwise from #1 rotor position, so that as you seat the distributor the rotor ends up in the proper firing position. Takes a little trial and error, take your time and be patient. If you position everything correctly, it will slide home and everything will mate up. Good luck.
I thought the rotor spins clockwise as it meshes, so you have to drop it in starting counter clockwise of #1. We just did this a couple of weeks ago, has my memory failed me so soon???
It took a couple of trys, but I got it drop in and point to #1. Just touched the key and it fired right up. Woo Hoo. The dist was behind by a couple of plugs! I set initial timing to about 8 degrees and it runs great. Now on to fix the carb issues. Thanks guys, this really got me out of a jam. Keith
or my secret way pull the drivers valve cover off and slowly turn the motor over till both valves on number one cylinder stop moving together when the timing mark is at around 4 to 6 degrees advanced. thats true number one cylinder firing , at the sdame time make sure the rotor is pointing at the number one plug wire on the cap.
Steve, Maybe my memory is suspect, but I'm pretty sure I start with the rotor pointing at #8, or #4, and as I push down it turns counter clockwise to #1. The rotor does spin clockwise in operation though.
huh well ya 'll have to use a long straight screw driver or and oil pump priming tool to turn the oil pump shaft ahead to predict the turning of the dist. as the gear meshes
Keith, after you fix your carb issues come back and let us setup your timing curve. With only 8 degrees initial I bet you are missing a bunch of horses. Many of us are running 14 or even HIGHER.
