The pinch weld molding on my 72 conv (avatar) doesn't lay down on the rear deck like it should. Either some clips are missing or bent maybe. How does it pop off? Straight up or slide towards front? I do see the screw that has to be removed from the front tab inside the rear window fuzzy. Like to be a little smarter so I don't screw it up removing it.ou:
Roger--Most that I have removed have been held on with 4-5 phillips screws (under the molding..sort of pointing upwards and back) on each side. Removed one from a 68 or 9 Lemans convert once that was held on with clips. All the others (typically '70+) I found to be held on with the screws. You will need to lower your top and feel around on the lip underside for any screws. Will likely need a short right angle type screwdriver that you can put some pressure on to hold the bit into the phillips recess. Once they are loose you just pull forward slightly....the trim should come off pretty easily at this point. Be aware that you may encounter rusted/stuck screws. Good luck.
I've found that if you raise/lower the top to about the halfway point you should have enough room to get your hand under the molding and take the screws out with a stubby screwdriver.
Stubby screwdriver will work sometimes but best to buy the Lisle 90 degree screw driver. Be prepared to encounter stripped screw heads. You may have to drill them out which makes it a difficult job with the top in place.
Thanks, it's a warm day so will take a ride and check for the screws while I'm at it. The top is new so maybe I'll get lucky with the screws.
Got lucky with your help!:TU: The thing that got me on the wrong track is looking in an Orignial Parts Group catalog. They list the molding along with clip set required with pictures even. Maybe with the replacement molding you do need the clips, but not for the one I have obviously, just as you all said, screws (new ones) only. Give myself credit for being smart enough to check with the experts here at V8Buick. Looks like I need to do is bend it a little in the right spots and it should fit perfect. Thanks again!:beers2:
Good deal---screws at that location that actually came out!!! BTW--that color combo/car in your avatar is absolutely GREAT LOOKING!
Thanks, it's been around, Tim Coyne in Minn., David Roth in Maryland (I think), I then acquired it from Mark Lob (Iowa) a few months ago. So all that is left is a few details, they did all the hard stuff. BTW, my son lives in Austin (Cedar Park) so we visit them accasionally, hope next time I'm in town there will be a Buick event. Will check.:TU:
Give us a "heads up" next time you plan on coming down. There are local car gatherings on Sat nights (weather permitting) and an occasional show, etc. Next big show is Nov 10 in a small town southeast of here...Bastrop, TX. A lot of Olds's from all over the state are supposed to attend...hopefully a few Buicks also.
George, I do have some of the cheap offset screw drivers but I found this on the Lisle web site. Is it what you are talking about? Brand says Kastar. Also mentions standard and reverse offset as options. Do you know what they are talking about? Pretty reasonable price and way handier than what I have for sure. One of those things you think that I won't need too often but seems like I use them a lot. The pic on the site ain't too hot. http://www.toolsource.com/offset-ratcheting-screwdriver-wrench-p-93439.html
I don't know or can not tell how that tool will work. I use the tool I have shown. It is also great for removing the stainless steel wheel well trim screws.
Thanks, it's only $12 so might as well get one. There's a 800 number to call so maybe they can splain the offset thing. Gee, I thought you most always had to remove the wheel to get some of the wheel well molding screws out!ou: Edit: BTW, George, did you see this newbie thread. Look familiar? http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?p=1075765#post1075765
Get the tool George mentions...it's the only small ratcheting screwdriver that really allows you to apply good even pressure to the drive portion of the tool (ie the bit) VIA the large round clear plastic discs that each bit is mounted in. You can use your thumb or palm and really push down as you ratchet the bit. When removing wheel opening screws you can "palm" the round disc and get your fingers on the inside of the wheelwell lip to really stabilize the tool. The other types don't really allow you to do this very well. The large "disc" allows for plenty of pressure without hammering your palm/hand. Beware, however....I had an old version of this tool that lasted FOR A LONG TIME...I used the phillips head bit to remove a massive number of "stuck" wheel opening screws and trunk stainless screws (on both Buick and Olds)...finally the tip of the Phillips bit gave out. I ordered a new one a few months back and broke the Phillips head bit within the first 5 usesou: I emailed the manufacturer and they immediately sent me a new bit/disc for no charge. Excellent service but I think they have cheapened the quality of the bits. I am going to try to find some better bits that I can transplant into their "discs". In addition, my old one had solid aluminum discs that held the bits instead of plastic discs. Still a tool worth buying if you are working on these Abodies...definitely ranks as one of my "top 5 must have car resto" tools You also need to check thetoolwarehouse.net before you buy tools from the site you linked to. I checked your link and the prices don't seem to be very competitive with toolwarehouse's....for the exact same products. + you get free shipping on your first order (I think) and on orders over $99 or $100(positive about this)...I have ordered tools from them at least 6 times.
Thanks for the additional info PGlade, I will get one from one of the places. Tired of screwing with my crapsman offsets, no place to hang onto or apply pressure. I have better luck with a bit held by a pair of vicegrips sometimes.
