painting interior metal

Discussion in 'Interior City' started by simon1243, Apr 11, 2007.

  1. simon1243

    simon1243 Got Torque?

    i need to repaint all the metal interior pieces in my car and i tried to do it on my steering column and after the first hit on the edge the paint chipped right off. so what do i use to get the paint i put on off and what do i need to do and buy to paint it right? the color is black. thanks curtis
     
  2. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Sand it off by hand unless you can take it apart and blast it. The factory used interior semi-gloss lacquer. You can just lightly sand and paint over the other paint if you used lacquer however if you used enamel it WILL lift.
     
  3. simon1243

    simon1243 Got Torque?

    i sanded it off by hand the first time and i would rather not do that again. i was hoping that there would be some sort of product i could spray on and the paint would come off. I'm pretty sure that i used enamel. it was a rattle can type job, although i put primer on it first so i thought it would work well but it has turned into a disaster. also i put several coats on it thinking that when i wet sanded it to make it look really nice i wouldn't go through the paint and hit the primer. so thats why i was hoping not to have to sand it off by hand. also the stop letters were horrendous to get the paint off of the first time and i really don't want to have to do it again considering how much paint i put on it, which was way to much in the first place i think.
     
  4. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    Not sure what the stop letters are? You can use paint stripper but if column is in car it will make a mess and tough cleanup afterwards. Why did it come out rough? Did you paint when less the 70 degrees? Spray bombs do not like less than 70 degrees.
     
  5. simon1243

    simon1243 Got Torque?

    the stop letters that are cast on the column neer the ignition cylinder. curently the column is not in the car and is taken apart enough to do a nice paint job but not far enought to take it to a sand blaster. the media would fill all the bearing and such.
     
  6. correctornot

    correctornot correctornot

    if your looking for correct i think there were 3 different levels of gloss on different parts,you would have to ask Duane or Dave Kliner about that
     
  7. simon1243

    simon1243 Got Torque?

    i just want a black paint that will hold up and look reasonably original
     
  8. copperheadgs1

    copperheadgs1 copperheadgs1

    I have GM service bulletins that tell you how to paint all interior stuff. Only two gloss types used. Flat and semi-gloss.
     
  9. PaulGS

    PaulGS Well-Known Member

    Use SEM brand paints. They have a semi gloss black that is spot on with the factory. What I did was sand, etch prime, and paint. That gives the best durability.
     
  10. simon1243

    simon1243 Got Torque?

    so do i use a laquer or acrilic?
     
  11. Hotrodgss1

    Hotrodgss1 Aiming High!

    This is the EXACT thread I was looking for!!!

    I'm resto-building a '70 GSX clone and am ready to paint the metal dash but I also need to know what type of paint I should go with?

    I've lightly sanded the entire dash with 600 grit but didn't completely strip the paint but there are a couple of spots where I sanded all the way to the bare metal (had to remove some factory "drips").

    Since most of the factory paint is still there, should I just go with laquer? If so, should I prime it with a laquer friendly primer? Which one exactly?

    Copperheadgs1... could I get a copy of that servicve bulletin?

    Leo
     
  12. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    The interior is one of the few places I use spray-can paint. :bglasses:
    Plasti-Coat has 'Classic Lacquer' in gloss black. When applied in several light coats, it gives a not-to-glossey, not-too-smooth, finish that looks close to the factory applied paint.
    Whereas, many enamel paints will give a finish that is too 'wet' and glossey....
    I applied mine over epoxy primer. Or you can use sandable primer from a spray-can.

    I have old paint charts that actually say to use gloss lacquer, but to not buff it out to approxiamate the original finish.

    BTW, this was done on my '66's. :TU:
     
  13. Hotrodgss1

    Hotrodgss1 Aiming High!

    Thankx Walt! By the way, is the Plasti-Coat stuff farily durable or does it chip and scratch fairly easy?

    Leo
     
  14. Joe65SkylarkGS

    Joe65SkylarkGS 462 ina 65 Lark / GN

    I don't like the glossy look so I used SEM Trim Black from my GN. I love this paint!!

    Looks awsome no matter where I use it. All my engine brackets my column my dash taillights gas tank. etc...

    I think this paint is the best available black. Btw eastwood now also carry it,not just poston kirban or ta.
     
  15. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Well, I haven't actually 'tested' it for chip/scratch resistance. I'd guess it's as durable as any other spray-can paint, or lacquer.
    Properly sanding the undercoat (old paint or primer), will improve adhesion.

    If you want extreme durability, go with a catalized enamel or urethane.
     
  16. Rivman

    Rivman Senior Ottawa Buick Guy

    Krylon #1613 Semi Flat Black rattle can - easy to work with, and dries to a durable satin gloss finish, as per original.
    Ensure parts are clean and wax/silicone free prior to spraying, and mask, or cover areas where o'spray is not needed. :TU:
     
  17. mitch28

    mitch28 Well-Known Member

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