1. If you have recently registered with a gmail email address, you must contact me, as gmail will not forward our confirmation email to you. Contact me and jim@trishieldperformance.com to complete your registration.
    Dismiss Notice
  2. In and effort to reduce the spam on the site, several years ago I had went to a program where I manually approve each and every new registration. This approval gives you full access to the site, to pictures, and to post, among other things. To be able to enjoy the full potential of the board for you, you need to be fully registered.. and that's easy.. Just send an email to me at jim@trishieldperformance.com and I will verify your registration. This policy will remain in effect indefinitely, as it has completely eliminated the bad actors from our site, who would spam and hack it, once they gained access. Thanks JW
    Dismiss Notice
  3. The "Group Buy" for the 1967-68 Deluxe Steering wheel recasting is now officially "Open". Now is the time to start sending in the wheels. The latest date that the wheels must be received by Kochs is 31 March 2025 The cost for each wheel is $750. The only "up front cost" is your shipping the wheel. If you send in more than one wheel, each additional wheel will cost $700. Shipping and insurance to Kochs and return shipping will be extra. You will be contacted by Teresa to make payment for the wheel(s) and return shipping and insurance when your wheel(s) is complete. The shipping will be factored on your delivery address and insurance. I will be sending the contact information all of you have sent me to Teresa at Kochs. Send in your wheels, horn pad and hardware and paint color sample if applicable. Please include: First and Last Name Shipping Address Phone number email address V8Buick "Member Name" Wheel Color (SEE THE BOTTOM FOR WHEEL COLOR) Pease read the "shipping to Kochs" below. There are two addresses. One for USPS Mailing One for FedEx and UPS shipping You can use USPS/Mail, UPS or FedEx to send in your core. Use the appropriate address depending on what service you use to ship. If you use USPS/Mail ship to: Koch's P.O. Box 959 Acton, CA 93510 Attn: Teresa If you use UPS or FedEx ship to: Koch's 7650 Soledad Canyon Road Acton CA 93510 Attn: Teresa Kochs Contact: Teresa (661) 268-1341 customerservice@kochs.com Wheel Color If you wheel is Black, you can list that in your information you send in with your wheel. For colored wheels, please contact Teresa about specifics for wheel color if you do not send in a color sample to match. Please contact me if you have any questions. Thank you to everyone for your participation in making this a reality. And "Thank You" Jim Weise, for allowing and facilitating this project! Michael .................... to remove this notice, click the X in the upper RH corner of this message box
    Dismiss Notice

Paint Blending Question

Discussion in 'Color is everything!' started by Aaron65, Jan 30, 2021.

  1. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    I hope nobody minds if I ask a question here about my Firebird...if so, the mods can delete this thread.

    Anyway, my '74 Firebird has a bulge in the upper quarter panel where the seam meets the roof. I'm guessing the lead has failed, and the paint around it's starting to crack. Whatever's happening underneath, I'll eventually have to do something about it because once the paint starts going, it's going to be pretty obvious.

    I have enough paint and body experience (and reasonable enough expectations) that I can do the work myself, but my problem is paint blending in this area. Firebirds don't have a ton of break lines in the body. I don't want to paint the whole car; the paint is older, but it shines up pretty well and I'm not anything like a perfectionist.

    If anyone has any tips for how to blend some paint in to be the least noticeable, I'd appreciate it. I only have a picture right now of the "good side," so I'll post it to show you where I'm talking about - the area is right between the top of the rear window and the top of the side window. Thanks to anyone who can help.

    008.JPG
     
  2. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Pretty simple process
    1. Do the repair obviously i would use All metal,..Duraglass,...or even a good filler as it will move a little. That's a very high stress area on those cars some subframe connections will help tremendously.

    2. Keep work are as small and tight as possible

    3. Prime block etc

    4.backsand with 1000 at least 24 in both directions from the repair.

    5. Keep the pressure low and keep the base tight.

    6. Layer your clear out as if you were priming

    7. Have another gun handy with some very slow reducer,..after the last coat of clear blow the the reducer over in to the last coat of clear a few inches and over onto the surrounding area several inches.

    8. Sand the blend edge with 2000~2500,..then buff her up
     
    Aaron65 and DasRottweiler like this.
  3. DasRottweiler

    DasRottweiler -BuickAddict-

    I have a 78 Formula 400 with much the same issue.
    Ethan's suggestion re: subframe connectors will help limit body twist .
    Thanks for the input Ethan , always appreciated.....sometimes I feel as though I have spent time in your classroom! Jim
     
  4. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    Thank you very much, Ethan. I've read some of your posts and I was hoping you'd see this. :) Thanks for taking the time to respond.
     
  5. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    One more question: The paint on the car is, for the most part, single-stage of some sort. Is it still OK to clear over that? I have no idea if it's enamel, urethane, or what. There's no checking or anything, so I doubt it's lacquer. Thanks!
     
  6. hugger

    hugger Well-Known Member

    Yea you can,..can use either or actually same process,..just melt that last coat in with the slow reducer
     
    Aaron65 likes this.
  7. Aaron65

    Aaron65 Well-Known Member

    Thanks!
     

Share This Page