I cannot seem to keep my 1960 LeSabre model 4419 cool. It never used to have this problem. I have a stewart warner gauge in it and a 160 thermostat. On a cool 50 degree night, it will run 180 going down the highway. In town on a summer day, it can easily hit 220. I have recored the radiator and a new fuel pump. The heads were done a while ago but I cannot keep it cool. I do not think the gauge is bad but I do not know how to test it. Anybody have any ideas? I was told not to put Eastwood's Radiator Relief in the radiator. It boasts up to a 30 degree decrease in temp. Anyone know anything about this stuff? I would appreciate the help. __________________ Strickly Stock
Well, the first thing I'll tell you is that you came to the right place for help. This board has some near geniuses to help you. :beer Now, for an opinion from one of the nowhere near geniuses. :laugh: Couple of questions for you to think about. Are you sure the gauge is correct? Silly question I know but it happens. You can test it by swiping your wifes candy thermometer and putting it into a pot of water on the stove. Turn the heat up to high and put just the temp probe of the gauge in the water also. Keep comparing the readings and see what happens. Did you change anything at all prior to the car picking up this bad habit? Jetting, timing, exhaust, carb work/replacement? Jetting leaner can cause the car to run hotter in some cases. Retarding the ignition timing can also cause this. If you just went from single exhaust to free flowing duals you may be running a bit lean also. Carb work such as a rebuild with just that one tiny little missed or skipped step can cause you to run lean in so many ways I can't begin to tell you all of them. Obviously a replacement carb can start out jetted too lean. How does the car run otherwise? Recent tune up? Is the vacuum advance mechanism connected? If not, you'll get both a vacuum leak and retarded timing, both of which can cause your engine to run hotter. Speaking of vacuum leaks, have you checked for one or more? You can do this fairly simply by letting the car idle at normal temp then placing your hand or a rag over the top of the primaries. Cover enough of the opening to cause the engine to change the way it runs. If it runs worse and tries to stall right away, no vacuum leak. If it picks up RPM and smooths out the idle, you definitely have a leak. The fun part is chasing it down. Still running points? Before I went to electronic ignition in the 70 GS 350 I had, the rubbing block would wear down enough to change the timing (retarding it) enough that it would begin to run hotter and over heat sometimes.ou: After you check out the stuff above, let me know what you come up with. If you have to chase down a vacuum leak, let me know. There are some pretty common places for them to be and some you might not think about. By the way, when the heads were done, did you do the work or did you have someone else do it? They may have used the wrong head gaskets or, if the nailhead uses one, valley pan. If the gaskets or pan are wrong, the coolant passages may be blocked. Last question, what mix of coolant are you running 50/50 or something close? Pure anti-freeze doesn't cool as well as pure water or nearly as well as the mix. Is there air trapped in the system? Bubbles in the coolant? Good luck. Phil
Run a 180* stat.... a 160 doesn't necessarily make it run cooler. Check timing to make sure it's set at factory spec. Try running a little bit more water in the mix. Make sure you add anti-freeze when it gets to be colder temps in the fall and the winter.
I just put in a 160 degree thermostat, I put on the fan gaurd/ shroud on the top of the radiator and let it idle. After about 25 minutes, the temp. gauge read 230 degrees and climbing. Something is definitely wrong!!!!! Eastwood's Radiator Relief or Evans cooling products will not solve this one. Something is wrong when a can is running 70 degrees over the thermostat rating. I would give almost anything to solve this problem. It is the smoothest, quietest engine I have ever heard. It runs perfectly, perfectly hot that is. I know you all have asked me about the timing and the vacuum advance. I have checked all that out. I have had a flow test done on the radiator and it passed with flying colors. Cooling systems are not that complicated. The only thing that I can think of is the water pump. I do not remember when I put it on but it was at least 6 years ago. What I do remember though is that it had cast iron impellers. It is not leaking so I do not think it is bad. If anyone has any ideas other than what has been discussed, I would be forever grateful. Thank you in advance. Al
Is there anything that would lead you to believe the pump is bad other than age? Also, did this condition gradually get worse or did it change suddenly? Did youcheck for vacuum leaks? You didn't mention it so I thought I'd ask....:laugh: Phil
Somewhat risky subject, but....... On the surface (assuming I didn't miss something)...I'm getting the feeling you've 'covered' some of the basics. If you are 100% confident in the gauge reading(s) and have adequate coolant flow, it's sounding like the possibility insufficient air flow while the car isn't moving (highway temp is fine). This would encourage me run tests on the air temp readings between the radiator and fan (just 'my' way). Couple of things from my experience when these cars were new...fan clutches gave lots of problems...plus, the characteristics of the clutch fluid gradually deteriorates over time...average loss in drive efficiency can be 200 rpm per year. Eventually slippage reaches the point where effective cooling is no longer possible. With the engine 'cold', I would check the fan belt for slippage and the fan clutch itself for signs of leakage and/or excessive bearing play (wiggle test). Spin the fan by hand to make sure it turns freely. Then start the engine and allow it to run until the heater is putting out hot air. Next, shut the engine off and spin the fan again. It should be harder to turn (as if there is a drag). If not I would replace the fan clutch. Also, keep in mind these engines operate at high temps by design (Buick felt overall efficiency was greater). In '57 they even furnished a 'recalibrated' indicator to make 'gauge watchers' more comfortable. This high-temp engine design was, in part, responsible for the introduction of 'idiot lights'. On a warm day, 200-220 should not be considered too high (especially if engine power seems normal and there is no coolant 'overflow' and/or 'pinging').
Hi, I had a 180* stat and my car was running at 200 and would go up to 220 on a cool day. I put in a 160* stat, drained and flushed the entire system with some radiator flush. I have about 25% coolant and 75% water mix with a bottle of Red Line water wetter. As stated I hear less anti-freeze will work better in the mix. My car now runs at 160* and stays there even after idleing for 10 minutes in park. Do you have a 7 blade fan? A four core radiator may help, not sure. Best of luck to you! MArk
