Does anone know if there is a GOOD way to remove the mirror glass on an outside rear view mirror? I would like to get the pot metal portion of both of my mirrors redone but I need to remove the glass first. I havent tried anthing yet, and I was hoping that someone has accomplished this before without breaking the glass! Thanks
Breaking the glass is the way it was done, but I get them out of inside mirrors by using a hair dryer and wooden AHHH sticks. Pop sticks are not strong enough. I get them from a medical supplier. You must get the glue hot enough to start allowing you to pull the mirror away. If you use a metal object the mirror will get scatched and hurt the chances of resilvering fixing it.
Good point on scratching the rear of the mirror. I once "scuffed" the back of a mirror glass so the glue would stick better. Once I had it on I realized the scratches showed through to the reflective sideou:
Drivers side comes out after 3 screws are removed Pass side, I had them break it, so I could have it re-chromed. Never thought of using heat, or I may have tried it (I don't recall what the glass condition was).ou:
Well I tried to use heat (a heat gun on low setting), but the heat cracked the mirror before I even tried to pry it looseou: . Anyone know where to get a replacement for the rare 70 pgr side mirror? Also, does the pivot ball come loose so that the base/mirror cup can be separated? I cannot tell if the stem is threaded or pressed in. HELP!!! Thanks
Scott, I didn't want to chance separating mine. I don't think they are meant to come apart. I had it rechromed after I broke the glass and removed it. The only drawback is the chrome did not take where the post enters the mirror housing. He called it nickel-shadowing. After I got the mirror back, I bought a replacement mirror glass for a large truck(marketed by motormite- HELP line). I made a cardboard approximation of the mirror glass, and Carefully used a glass cutter to cut out the correct shape. I then siliconed it in. I used convex glass, and the results were excellent. The convex glass, while not being correct, makes the mirror much more useable.
I agree The body is NOT to be separated from the ball. Yes, the re-chroming in that area is a bit of a problem. But I don't know of any way to prevent it.o No:
Thanks! Dan/Larry Thanks very much for your help:TU: ! Looks like I will have to give your suggestions a try. I plan on taking some parts ( door handles/exerior mirrors/hood lip trim) to the platers tomorrow to get some pricing, hope they dont gouge me too much!
I agree . Do not take the mirror apart. Also the relacement glass carries a GM part number and can sometimes be bought. I have one myself. I have never tried the number on www.GMpartsdirect.com. Larry great work as usual. Is yours an engraved passenger mirror? I think I only saw one at Flint.
69 buick outside mirror I am going to have mine re-plated also...can it be done with the glass in? I guess notou: What are the part numbers for the glass?:TU:
I show the 70-72 replacement mirror to be #9817000. Be careful on the rechroming. You can draw a goober that will slap it on there so thick that you will lose all the detail.
guess my drivers mirror will stay with the replacement mirror siliconed over the old existing mirror (you can see where the mirroring on the orginal mirror is coming off) Nate
Jim, The larger mirror that I cut to size was engraved with the "objects are closer than they appear", but the mirror was large enough for me to cut that out. I love the convex glass, it shows the entire lane next to the car while driving. The plain glass shows the grill of the car next to you:grin: The mirror is almost useless. I believe some 90's sportwagons, and Electras, and some other GM cars had a mirror that was very similar, if not the same shape. Replacement glass for those are probably available.
Jim I talked to the local plating guy about the detail portion of the "Trishield embossing " and he said tht he has very fine engraving tools to make sure that the detail stands out after the plating. I even mentioned the 70 rear bumper nameplate and the letter detail that is involved and he said that he could do it but would have to see the piece to give me a price. George Nedadovich at Buick performance has a link on his website...actually a phone #, for this place. They seem to know what they are talking about. He said there was a 8-10 week turnaround time on parts right now. The address is: AW Custom Chrome 17726 E. Nine Mile Rd. Eastpointe, Mi 48021 586-775-2040 Ask for Steve. Thanks for the mirror part numbers:TU:
69 GS mirror Anybody know the part numbers for the 69 mirrors? I have both the right side and left to get!!uzzled:
What to do now? Well....I took the pass. mirror to the platers, along with hood chrome strip and door handles....but he wouldnt do the mirror without the post removed and the cup/base separated. He stated that he couldnt get good current to run through it for the proper plating transfer. I hate to mess with the mirror, but has anyone sucessfully separated the two? Also whats the secret of getting the remote control wires off of the drivers side mirror, so that I can get that plated also? Thanks in advance for your help :beer
Scott, My mirror was done without separating it. There is definite discoloration at the upper end of the post where it enters the housing. The plater called it nickel shadowing. You have to look underneath the mirror to see it, but it is noticeable. As far as the drivers mirror is concerned, if you look carefully at the part where the cables connect to the mirror, you'll notice that the cables can be slipped out if you enlarge the slits in the control head. You have to be careful, but it is doable.
Mine was also Plated without separating them. Look in the vendor section and you will find my platers info.:TU:
