MOOG used to make a "Problem Solver" cross shaft that allowed for more caster. Don't know if it's still available...... RAYBESTOS shows an offset replacement for more caster. (5951016)
Perry, the only thing I would do different is add more pick up points on the lower control arm pick up points on the body, I see alot of low seven and six second mustangs do this now and is very sucessfull with it, Damn you got what I always dreamed of do'in to car's.
nice shocks.....how easy was it to mount them? Did you get the ones w/ bounce control? I am thinking about sell all my single QA1's to replace them w/ Afco doubles.
These are the one with the BNC bounce control .Install wasn't to bad you have to cut out the bottom of the control arm and weld in a new plate takes a few hours can't wait to try them out :beer
I removed my new front end bushings and installed Global West Del-A-Lum bushings. Unbelievable difference. Steers straight like it's on rails. These GW bushings allow NO lateral movement, but front will rise with no resistance. With my Helwig ARB on rear, I can hardly tell I have bias-ply MT streets on back. If you install GW kit: * Have GW offset shafts slotted, as mentioned above, if you want more than 2 degrees caster. Look at directions to position the shafts properly before aft slot cuts are made. Don't make a $100+ mistake!!!! * As you assemble the kit, keep the bushing grease grooves aligned with the alemite holes as you tighten the bushing nuts. * Position the alemites for easy to reach lubing before final torquing. * This is a good time to install low friction ball joints, or at least see how stiff your old ones are. * With shocks and swaybar removed, get two guys to work that frontend up and down. Make sure there is no bind. Caution... CLOSE THE HOOD FIRST!!!
These bushings are good for daily driving, pounding gravel roads or yanking the front wheels in the air. No need to run with loose bolts or nuts, no grinding the serrations on the bushings, etc. Just get the shocks and springs you need and go.
