Operation 4 Speed Is Underway

It has taken me about 1.5 years to assemble all the componets, I wasnt going to start until I was confident I had all of them to do the swap.

I started this long before we knew all the variables envolved and before Dave Kliener repro'd the correct pieces.

If it wasnt for those who have gone before me I may not be as confident as i am now. Thanks to Reg (sunbuick), Scott Miller, Bob (buickgsman), Dave Kliener and blt4spd

I dont have every piece to do a perfect looking factory swap, plus this is on a '68 GS so it doesnt have all the parts required for a later model.

All parts were purchased used

 

I started inside the car. No paticular reason, it just seemed like the place to start.

 

This wrapped up my first evening of work, about an hour and half to remove the drivers seat, remove the brake pedal and firewall plate.

 

Firewall plate and boot installed. Wasted about 30 minutes trying to fit the right side half of the manual trans firewal plate before i decided to compare the auto version to the manual one.

There was a difference, most noticable was the my original auto plate was stamped with an "A" where as the used one had an "X".

I already had the left half plate bolts started, so I thought I would give my original right half a try, slid right in.

 

Completion of evening 2, about two and half hours for a total of 4 hours.

Starting to look more like a 4 speed car.

 

Greg, looks like you are all set. I do have one word of caution for you. I swapped in a tremec 5 speed into my car after I had a go at the 2004r automatic(which I hated). I used Dave Kleiners linkage setup and it is fantastic. Made my life so much easier!! But... I had a problem with the clutch pedal sticking(not related to Dave's parts). The clutch pivot in the bellhousing I was using was too short and the clutch fork ended up pivoting on the belhousing. Not sure if there are 2 different size pivot balls, but I had to use an adjustable pivot to get things to work right. Make sure the clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor smoothly. Just an FYI so you can make sure you don't have to take it apart after assembly.

Good luck

Bob

 

Hey Greg,

Looking good so far! Where did you get that little plate for the firewall boot? You know in the underdash pic above - the little metal plate or ring that holds the firewall clutch rod boot (or bellows). I need one of those puppies!

Thanks!

 

I just finished mine. Some more tips:

Be sure to install the Z bar and linkage so you can depress the clutch to help get the tranny seated. I used the plastic alignment tool, but needed to have the clutch linkage operational. It is really hard to bench press the Muncie under the car multiple times to get it to seat!

Be sure that the trans is fully inserted in the bellhousing. Do not try to tighten the bolts to get it in. You will break a tranny ear off.....Ask me how I know..... :grin:

Also, assemble and adjust the shifter linkage on the bench. It is much easier than in the car.

The speedo cable needs to be 68" long.

Be sure to support the oil pan when you pull the auto tranny. If the motor mounts are used, the engine can tilt and break the fan shroud.

 

Andrew, The upper pushrod boot retainer ring is Year One #RR687.

The firewall manual trans plate #401717 was one of those rare swap meet finds.

 

Greg, IT LOOKS GREAT.

um..... how long will the whole process take you about???(days or like hours all together)

Thanks

Anthony

 

Lookin' real good! :3gears:

 

Anthony I really am not sure how long it will take. I didnt put any time frame on it. Plus my garage lighting isnt that good so I usuall knock off at dark. I also like to work with the doors up and the spring weather has been above average the last 3 days, but a cold snap could slow me down.

 

A picture of the recepient

 

Looks like where the carpet is cutout for the auto shifter is going to be exposed now.

 

Both seats and carpet out. There was no way to try and roll the carpet up in the passenger footwell. It came out easily, remove the door sill plates and the seat belts. the kick panels will have to be removed to reinstall the carpet and the A-pillar covers will have ot be removed to remove the kick panels.

 

Looking great Greg,i`m gonna do this conversion on my conv`t. also,i have everything and just need some little stuff left to get,what pedals are you using?

Thanks

 

I had read where the tunnel hump kind of falls into place with the contours of the tunnel. I beleive the floor bracket for the auto console is in the way. I can kind of see where I think its supposed to sit on the tunnel.

 

Yea I am taking a break.

 

Already have the garage messed up and the really messy part hasnt started yet. Time to get her up in the air next.

 

George, I am using what we have determined in previous threads as a Buick/Olds variety. It is definately different at the upper rod connection point than the Chevy version and some Pontiacs.