Do you know the paint code for a 1970 455 (blue) color. Or where to buy the paint. Quart not spray bomb. Bought some from Bill Hirsh (sp) automotive and its way off on color thanks Noel
I have used the Fusick paint but you never know what color you are going to get. Page Paul Martin( Canuck ) He just fininshed his 72 4 speed W-30 conv and it is spectacular. He has the engine color correct and knowing Paul he can tell you the paint #. John
Olds 455 Paint color Noel I have sourced paint from Supercars Unlimited, Portland Or. Fusick Automotive and NAPA. NAPA was always a crap shoot with 4 cans all having different shades of Blue. Supercars is the most consistant. Fusick uses the same supplier as Supercars,but I think theirs is an enamel blend whereas Superscars is a Laquer Blend One judge at the OCA Nationals said my engine color was too dark. He drives an Aurora and had NEVER restored a 442. He is commenting on a color on an engine that had been run for 30 minutes and comparing it to a color he saw on a 35 year old original motor. If you are uncertain about the aerosols,have a paint supplier custom tint a quart to your specs. Dupont has a book,available at its vendors that has every shade of what you could inagine. Tell them it is going on an engine so they can add the high heat mix.
why would the OCA even allow that guy to do any judging at all at a national meet? let me guess,he read a lot of books on 442's.
Andy, The judging is all done by volunteers and they are not supposed to be associated with a car in the class (worked on a friends car). You can request a class in which to judge, but most just go with the flow and judge where they need judges. I know I have had times where I was ready to pull my hair out after recieving my judging sheet. I had points deduced for not having points on the ends of the piping going around the bottom of the seat (original interior) and having the wrong antenna on the car (an original spear point just like my friends that were in the senior class) and the chrome was too thin on my mirrors (again, original issue). Then I realize, 1) they are not paid professionals, 2) that I know my car is correct in those areas, 3) it is more fun to wash rubber off the quarter panels than to dig bugs out of the radiator! :3gears: I will probably have my car judged again, but I don't live and die by it!
The NAPA blue was the closest I've seen to the real thing at a real price per can. Most of the aftermarket people's colors do vary from can to can and they charge a fortune for them (be sure to check the shipping charges BEFORE you hit the order button. 4 rattle cans of Cutlass 350 gold cost me over $100 from Year One. Haz Mat shipping was the supposed culprit. Orederd last few times from Supercars Unlimited in Oregon. Very happy with their colors (especially the 65-69 400 Bronze and the 64-74 330/350 gold) and no ridiculous shipping charges. Haven't tried their 455 blue yet, still using up my klast few cans of the Napa blue. When I heard it was being discontinued, my buddy here at the local Napa store ordered in all the available ones in this area for me at $4/can. Only two left now. You can always find something in the color you want, then go to a professional auto paint store and have them color match it and put it in rattle cans for you. Usually a 1 quart minimum, but that should fill 4-6 rattle cans. Still cheaper than Y1, etc. Trick is to find a part that has the correct color still preserved and intact. Look under greasy, grimy valve covers or waterpumps on junkyard cars.
Hi, since this post is about Olds, I'll try here. I'm looking for anyone here who also visits realoldspower site. I am a member there but my internet provider was just bought out by another company. My new address still gets me in here on the Buick site, I need to find how to get back on real olds power. Can anyone help me out? Thanks in advance Jarhead
Try a little later. The site appears to be down again. You may have to re register since the ROP server has changed. John
Hi and thanks, I know how to get to the site. When my internet address changed, I could no longer get in, and I can't find any web master to contact. Thanks Jarhead
Supercars rattlecan blue: It looked a bit different in person than it does on here (darker), but it looked good to me. Has darkened slightly with the little driving I have done. Rollins did say to NOT prime it first as that will change the shade. Todd PS-Any tips for getting that heater valve out while not discoloring the intake? Somebody forgot the anti-seize a couple decades ago. :af:
Looks great. Is that a Fram oil filter? Lots of people say they're one of the worst you can use. Think there was a big thread on ROP a month or so ago on this. You may want to check it out. No suggestions on the water valve removal. I'd leave it and restore/refresh/whateber right in place. Does it still work? Only necessary to get max A/C performance. Doubt you'll need that where you live. Phoenix is another story, though. dave
Hey Dave, The Fram was only on it for break in. Has a Wix on it now. My builder doesn't think much of Fram either, but it's good for big chunks. :laugh: Haven't even tried the A/C yet. I need to fix a wire first (5 minute job that I haven't gotten around to. More important things like installing 3.90 gears and such....) :3gears:
In my one experience with the SuperCars Unlimited blue, I found it a little too dark and a little too metalic. But I don't have any better suggestions. I don't think it's a bad choice. It doesn't really matter if the Heater Control Valve works -- as long as it doesn't spout a geiser like mine did. Removal required one BFW and 3 smashed knuckles.
