Sounds like a good combo. Check the Olds forums to get the absolute on the Olds engine, since we are Buick folk. Many of us our found of our GM cousin Oldsmobile, but the Olds folks should give you the best details.
Definitely go for the complete 350 rather than the 'pieces here and pieces there' engine. Couple of things I picked up on the SB Olds and making power: If you can find the #5 head castings, use them. Use the bigger valves offered by several sources. Have the heads cut and seats installed for the big valves the do a bowl blend to clean up the intakes and exhausts. On the exhaust side, take the EGR bump out of the port. Have your machine shop weld up the divider between the two center exhaust ports, then mill it back flush. If you don't, you will likely spend big on blown header gaskets. Harland sharp makes adjustable full roller rockers. Comp Cams makes a kit for converting to an adjustable rocker that has a roller tip. Either way, much of anything over the stock olds cam requires an adjustable valvetrain. I got a set of each from eBay a few years ago for about $165 each. Most, but not all Olds cranks are the nodular iron version. If yours has it, use it and just have it machined. Unless you go pretty wild you shouldn't need to hunt one down. A set of forged pistons now will allow you to get pretty much as crazy as your budget lets you. Not terribly expensive versus the cast version. If you can find a diesel block, grab the oil filter adapter as it has a provision for an oil cooler right from the factory. Use a double roller timing chain. The factory intake isn't bad for the 70-72 models. If you plan to run this much over about 5000 RPM, go with the Performer RPM. The 600 CFM carb you have will probably be fine if you tune it well though you may see a bit more power with the 750 version. The hot rod model is the 1407. The HEI is ok up to about 4000 RPM but loses some steam after that. There are several kits available that replace the GM brain. Use something like the MSD or Accell module. Should be a plug and play deal and get you to 6000 RPM no problem. Headers should be no more than 1 3/4 for most and 1 7/8 if you build something that really breathes deep or revs really high. Other than that, use good build techniques, break it in right and go :3gears: . By the way, from my searches, www.442.com is about the best place for hot rod Olds info. Joe Mondello makes good parts. Pricey and, at least the guy I talked to, theres a real serious attitude when you call. Great parts though and he knows Olds. Dick Miller is a great source for parts too.
An 86 307 uses Electronic spark timing. That means no mechanical or vacuum advance, and a 7 pin Module. You need another distributor, either an Olds points distributor, or an Olds HEI with the 4 pin module(1975-78?)
Why go older with the dist.? Whats that latest year 350s were produced? And what did they come in? Is it possible that I can find a 350 that came in an 80's car? E.P.
80's cars were computer controlled, you don't want that. You want a distributor that has mechanical and vacuum advance. Then you can have it rebuilt/recurved if necessary. It's a very important part of your engine as far as street performance is concerned. You cannot use the 307 distributor.
Honestly y'all, I'm still thinking about the engine 'Red' has for $200. He says its got new bearings and all in it, already been machined and bored .030 over. And from what I see, it looks to check out but I'm not an expert. I've never had an engine rebuilt before so I'm new to this. I thought about the cost of buying a block, having it machined and the parts (main bearings, cam bearings, rod bearings, timing set, rings, driveshaft), it would be well over $200. Not saying this block has all that, but it has to be a good start. Bottom line is I ain't buying it until my mechanic can check it out! Until then.... I know this is a buick site, but has anybody ever read www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofe350.htm#E350 350CIDEngineDetail ? They give details as to what to expect from a 350 olds and how to get there. "The only non-factory part you may be interested in is an aftermarket cam and intake, and a high-volume oil pump. If Edelbrock can get 370hp from such a combination, where only the intake and exhaust are non-stock, then you certainly can". Can anybody verify this?
I've already cut out the computer, I have a crate 307 and when doing the swap from the old 307 I went to an Edelbrock carb w/ electric choke. The computer is still there just not being used/ not connected. I know when the crate 307 was put in that I bought a new rotor button and something else for it.
Yes, but the computer is what changes the timing in response to what it see's from the various engine sensors. You cut out the computer, and now the timing doesn't vary at all. You need a distributor that is pre-computer(before 79-80) Do you want to do this right?
YES I want 2 do this right. Sorry, I won't ?uestion the Wizard again..... thanx 4 the insight, really man
You can question me, I don't mind But it seems like you need to get this car going, and you want a high performance motor in it. Just a suggestion, repair the head gasket on the 307. Then save your money, and build your motor as time and finances allow. All good things come to those who wait. :TU:
I've already saved 3 G'z for the 350 swap, I said my budget is 2 G'z 'cuz I don't wanna race car, just a dependable street machine. I figured I could get there w/ 2 G'z considering I would be able to use alot of stuff from my 307. I don't wanna fix the head gasket in the 307 'cuz its like wasting money if I'm gonna upgrade anyway, thats $500 in labor that can go toward my 350, understand where I'm going? I've been thinking about stop-leak for it though, but I know that there is no such thing as a mechanic in a bottle so I'm having second thoughts. I don't wanna damage anything that I may be able to use on my 350 in the process.
Do the head gasket yourself. It isn't that hard. It will be a learning experience, and if it doesn't work, you'll only be out the cost of the gaskets. I'm thinking this is your only transportation, and the priority should be to get you operational. Transplanting a different engine has unforseen delays and small problems, and if you remove your 307, you'll be committed to installing the 350 which may delay you having a running car longer than you think. Mechanics can be a very frustrating thing. It's better to not have any pressure to get things done quickly. That's why I say get the 307 running. A running 307 is worth something. It will fit into a variety of cars. GM used alot of them. Good reliable engine, just short on real guts. It's up to you.
For what it's worth, if you put Stop Leak in that engine, you are also putting it in the radiator and heater core. The stuff works by adhering to the little surfaces and building up to plug leaks. Think about the water path through your radiator. Unless you want to budget for at least boiling out your current radiator, or maybe a full re-core, don't use that stuff. It's almost impossible to get out of a radiator and heater core. Been there, done that. Ended up fixing my leak, blocking up my radiator about 50% and almost no heated air in the winter. I've almost never gone with an inexpensive (read cheap) fix and had it come out right. Usually ends up just costing more than doing right the first time around. I say usually because I have to ass-u-me it worked at least once over the last 30 years or so, just not once that I remember..... :laugh: ou:
Larry, you're right, this is my only transportation and I understand what you are saying. But I don't have the resources (alot of tools, place to work, etc) to get the gasket done alone. Nor do I have the 'know how', not afraid of rolling up my sleeves, its just that I've been down that road and had everything in shambles. Parts and tools everywhere, at a would be speed bump in the procedure that turns into a dead end, and can't get anybody to help me out instruction-wise or work-wise. I live in an apt. in ATL, they don't allow work on cars here. Understand my position? I actually wouldn't mind trying to do it myself just to learn.... but at what cost and to what end?
Just do what I like to do and buy a good running car with the motor you want, and swap the motors and sell the other car!! Do a rebuild on a good running motor, or at least running and you will have better chances of success... Goodluck and keep us informed, Sean.
Sean: You know I thought of that, thats why I asked what years and models the olds 350 came in. That way I'd be able to hear it run and wouldn't be taking as much of a chance on getting a bad block. The more I look around and think about the rebuild, the more I think about what the Wizard told me. I also think about the bearings that 'Red' says have been replaced in the $200 block he has for sale. And how if I was to get a running block and rebuild it, replacing the bearings would be well over $200, and if I didn't replace the bearings in it I would never know the extent of wear. But if I was to start with new bearings, a freshly machined block, ported stock heads w/ larger valves & springs, that I would know EXACTLY what I had, bottom to top, no guestimating. Btw, I still haven't pinpointed which # heads are the superior, or at least best for my application. I do believe I remember someone suggesting #6 heads here, and I've read on an olds site that #5 & #8 heads are good. But all in all, I've read that all the stock 350 heads are good, at some point from different sources.
Who IS this guy?! I keep seeing his name, what is he, some kinda expert on Oatsmobile heads? Anyhow....I wanna know why he recommends the #5 heads. Joe, if you're reading this, don't mean to offend. Just cluelessly curious. :grin:
Since this really is your only car and you need it running, maybe I'm crazy but it seems to make sense to buy a good running engine, drop it in, and upgrade as you go. When you can afford a second car, get a second car (cheapie) so that it doesn't really matter how long the Regal is down while you rebuild the 350 to your likings. Not sure if I'm crazy or what o No: Joe Mondello... http://www.mondellotwister.com/ http://www.metalshapers.org/nitrogeezers/joe_mondello.htm
