So maybe I also will need to pull the rear shoes in a bit, since they are likely making contact before the new front shoes are. Does that make sense?
yes david, i would definitely check the rear shoes. even if they"re still good you probably need them adjusted. ive seen many cases where the rear adjusters are locked up and not working because of neglect.
I found time this afternoon to pull the rear drums and inspect, and the linings are not all that bad really. The adjusters are not frozen, they turn easily. However, both sides are unbelievably filthy. I'll be using up a few cans of brake cleaner tomorrow... and adjust the rears a bit. I also found the brake fluid a bit low, but not enough to be a factor. Think I'll put off the new rear shoes til next spring at least.
Dang, still having issues. I adjusted the front shoes out as far as practical w/o having heavy drag. Cleaned up the rears, and adjusted them in a bit in case they are contacting too early for the fronts to work. No dice, I'm still not getting any action from the front brakes. Pedal goes nearly to the floor, only feels like the rear brakes are functioning, and brake light comes on upon braking hard. Guess I need to consider the possiblity that the front drums are out of tolerance after being turned. Didn't seem likely to be an issue, as I had a good brake pedal before, and the old linings weren't completely gone, just deteriorating. Figured there was plenty of material left for machining and new shoes would make up for the material removed. There shouldn't be an issue with air, as I did nothing with the wheel cylinders or lines. Other than pulling the whl cyl link pins out to clean and inspect.
Where did you have them done? A good shop should have a brake drum mic. Too bad I didn't see this thread earlier, we could have had a brake drum party! I need new hardware in the rear...
I had Berg Auto turn the drums, they've been at it for a VERY long time. I didn't ask them to check the ID, and I'm sure the assumption was that I'd verified they were within spec to be turned, since I asked them to do the work. I thought that with new shoes, the full lining thickness would offset the material removed from the drums. And that may not be the problem at all.
If I didnt know any better, I'd say the master was bad. Are you sure you didnt pop a steel line? The hydraulic system was never opened up? You didnt bleed the brakes at all? The reason I ask is that there is a good possibility that the master went bad as a result. Some dont survive bleeding I think those front drums would have to be waaaay oversize for it to affect ir. Even so, I dont think the pedal would be to the floor. 9.560 is maximum on a 9 1/2" drum.
david, i dont think its the drums. pull off all the drums again. carefully check all your work. are all the shoes in the wheel cylinder pins? if you get a drag when adjusting the brakes, the drums should have enough meat on them. also, did you check your brake fluid level in the master? also, have a helper sit in your car and have him apply the brakes, while you go around and try to spin each tire. this will tell you which wheel or wheels are not stopping. let me know what you find.
Problem solved. Finally had time to have my brother over tonight and we bled the front brakes, and have normal operation again. I would guess the fluid level was low enough that when I had the shoes off, and pulled the WC pins out to inspect them, some air was pulled into the front lines. When I put the pins back in, I found the pistons had pushed outward, pulling fluid from the MC, which was already kind of low on fluid. Went for a test drive and operation seems normal now. Thanks for everyone's input. Now I can burn off the remnants of last fall's gas fill before another winter arrives... Next issue, some very loose joints in the steering linkages.
