If your truck has done that kind of mileage on a SBC, then if I were you I'd go out and kiss it. It's outlived most of Chevy's wildest expectations. You must be a very good driver who doesn't abuse engines, or knows how to take care of them. I mean that as a complement, not facetiously. An old rule of thumb with the SBC was usually once it hits 100,000 miles take it out and rebuild it. The timing chain is usually pretty slack by then and the oil pressure has usually dropped off because those poor little engines load a lot of torque on those small bearings, and being that the cranks are cast, tend to wear out. Because of the high loading on the cam lobes, the cams tend to start wearing out. One advantage with the SBC is that you can torque the rockers down to stop that ever-present clicking noise. (And start valve recession) Also, I've found that if a SBC is cooked once, the bearings fall out of it. It'll still run, but not very well. I'll take a burned-out, scored cam cover small-block Buick any day of the week over a SBC.
With all due respect, it is obvious that my experience with small block Chevys greatly differs from yours. My great uncle put over 300,000 miles on the 327 in his `68 Impala SW and never had a problem, I could go on and on but I won't. I'm sure everyone has their preferences when it comes to brand loyalty. I got my first pickup 38 years ago. A `69 Chevy with a 307. Since then I've had 2 brain farts and bought Fords both times and had to replace the engines in both of them. I have never had to do that with a Chevy or GMC, nor have I ever blown one up in a street or race car and I have driven most of them like I stole them, but I also maintain them very well and have had many of them with well over 100,000 miles. As with anything, Buick included, if you don't take proper care of them they will not last. Maybe I'm just lucky, I don't know, but since this is a Buick site I'm sure everyone is getting tired of this thread so this will be my last post on this topic.
Naw still here guys been traveling for work, I can appreciate everyones input and their opinions, I think the reason why I love this hobby is that you can still get advice/opinions from everyone but at the end of the day it is MY money that I am spending so I guess when it is your money you can build em how like em. I realize not all will agree with a Chevy motor in a Buick but when I have a pretty low mileage ZZ4 with a carb blower setup with a 4l60 on it and its just collecting dust in my garage my mind started to wander and the "hey what if" factors start to enter my mind. Again I know the SBB is a lil tired and it does cost a little more to rebuild than a SBC, my fab skills are not the greatest regarding motor mounts and exhaust (which I have no problem paying for), I was just curious if there was an "easy" (and I use that term loosely, lol) to "bolt it in place of the SBB. Again I greatly apprciate all of the input and I really didnt try to start up anything between the "Hatfiled & McCoys" :beer
Well, I guess considering the sheer number of sbc's built, odds were that they had to get at least a couple of 'em right...
The Buick 350 has developed a nasty lifter tap! It seems as though it is not holding oil pressure until I get on her, at idle it registers 0??? I have heard the SBB has oiling issues? I'm scared to drive the car now
I'm with you. I've had lots of Chevy's, and been around lots of Chevy's with a ton of miles on them. Nothing wrong with a Chevy small block. Good engine that is the cheapest platform to build power on. That being said I also stand by what I said before. With cars and houses you have to think about resale. If you put a Chevy engine in your Buick you will shrink the group of potential buyers. I know that when I see a Skylark with a nice built Chevy engine in it the first thing that I think about is what it's going to cost to put a Buick engine back into it and what can I get for the Chevy engine. It's your car and you should do what makes you happy, but when it comes time to sell this car some day that Chevy engine might not make you as happy.
I would have to agree with most of the sentiments expressed with regard to resale value. Up here in Canada there are a lot of converted old Buicks and Oldsmobiles running Chev engines because for years we could never get any parts up here for any Buick or Olds engine that was 10 years old or older. They generally are worth a less than their proper engined compatriots. Also, every hot rod out here runs a SBC, and I've just gotten tired of seeing the same thing, and am tired of listening to people call down all the others while fixing yet another burned out small block. "Nuff said on that topic...it's getting old. As to your small-block Buick's problem; here's a quick fix, may not work, but worth a try if you don't want to spend serious money on that engine. The problem lies with the oil pump, which is that engine's "Achilles Heel". The timing cover is scored, the pump isn't putting out. You can try installing a high-pressure high-volume pump kit (consists of two taller gears a spacer plate and a couple of springs) which might help nurse a few more miles out of that engine. But the bottom line is you're probably going to need a timing cover, especially if you decide to rebuild that engine. The engine will still run with next to no oil pressure at idle, but it will eventually do damage. As long as the pressure still builds up off-idle, it should be okay for a while longer.
Check the rockers, I think the 70 model still had the aluminum ones and once in awhile the valve side will wear down. what weight oil are you running,:bglasses: try a heavier weight to bring the pressure up (quick fix)
after removal of the valve cover I found that these are no adjustable rockers! Changed the oil and put 20w-50 in it and it did nothing. Any other suggestions? I am thinking rebuild time??
Yeah, Buick doesn't use adjustable rockers like the SBC do. Chalk one up for the Chevy, it's adjustable. So, if it's starting to get noisy, it might well be rebuild time, particularly if it's got over 140,000 miles on it and seen infrequent oil changes or a lot of abuse. There are a few things that go wrong with flat-tappet engines these days. One, the motor oil is no longer designed to work in them. You'll need a supplement like ZDDP, and yes, even on a worn out old engine. Your cam is probably at the case-hardening level, and probably beginning to erode away. ZDDP might help stave it off. Two; - thicker oils don't necessarily help. That poor engine is dragging oil from the back of the block where the sump is located to the front where the oil pump is. Put butter in there and the pump is forced to work that much harder. The major problem, and the biggest reason your lifters are starting to clack is because of oil starvation. If you want to fix this, you're going to have to either install the HP, HV oil pump, or get a new cover and the bigger pump, it's pretty much the only way. The nice thing is that it's a pretty quick job to just change the pump. The pump is accessible from the outside, just back of the filter. No need to drop the pan. Take the filter off. You'll see about 5-7 screws holding the bottom plate on. Remove these and the gears will fall on your head. You might have to jack the motor up a bit to clear the shaft of the driven gear. The kit will come with a spacer plate and a template, all you have to do is drill in the two dowel pins, install and fit the larger gears and spacer, pack the works in petroleum jelly or grease, (to prime the pump) install the bottom cover, replace the oil filter and the oil, and it should build some pressure, as long as the bearing train isn't gone. When you install the driven gear, make sure that it lines up with the distributor shaft and snaps into place. If the shaft isn't properly lined up, you'll shotgun the motor for sure. If it starts, and doesn't prime, you'll hear bearing knock almost immediately. Shut it down and pack the pump again. It will not prime on just oil alone! That oil pump design is what killed many a Buick engine. It's set in an aluminum cover that scores easily when run hard cold, or neglected. Up here in Canada it wasn't uncommon for people to burn up those motors just by forgetting to plug them in at -40, and then try and run it the next morning with that pump trying to move semi-frozen oil from the sump. The pump would try and pump, and it would get hot, and with the heating of dissimilar metals, it would score the cover and lose tolerances. I understand these covers are now available aftermarket somewhere, but they're probably the most expensive part of the motor you'll buy if you do the rebuild.
BOXXY 7,313,855 views Thank You I LMAO :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: the original Boxxy http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yavx9yxTrsw
I appreciate the responses that address the actual question! i think it may be time for a rebuild as this motor has been through alot, I thought I was getting a great deal but the fact hat this thing needs to be rebuilt is a PIA. But hey I REALLY like the car so that is what I will do, does any one know a good re builder in the soCal area?
